

		       ATARI 5200 SUPERSYSTEM

		     FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

                            Version 1.0

                      Maintained by Keita Iida


Send additions/comments/corrections/suggestions to:

Keita Iida -- keita@mindspring.com, 75271.122@compuserve.com

Copyright (c) 1996 by Keita Iida and others where noted.  This file
may be reproduced, in whole or in part, so long as the content of
that portion reproduced is not modified, and so long as credit is
given to this FAQ list or its Maintainer, or the author of that
section reproduced when given.

The data contained herein is provided for information purposes only.
No warranty is made with regards to the accuracy of this information.

ADDED SINCE BETA 5:

1.2 -- Did you know?
4.10 - 2 Port production modifications.
4.11 - Logic board IC chip functions

And an assortment of other minor additions and corrections.

Contributors:
-------------
Dan Boris
John Hardie
Kevan Hearn
Leonard Herman
Brian Holscher
Kevin Horton
Jerry Jessop
Mike Kahler
Sean Kelly
Bo Krogsgaard
Scot Leibacher
John Vivian Matthews
Russ Perry, Jr.
Scottie Prince
Pete Schmek
Jay Tilton

Game Raters:
------------
Ralph Barbagallo	(RB)
Edward Brunner		(EB)
Clint Dyer		(CD)
Kevan Hearn		(KHe)
Kevin Horton		(KHo)
Keita Iida		(KI)
Jeffry Johnston		(JJ)
Todd Lawrence		(TL)
John Vivian Matthews 	(JVM)
Daniel A. Mazurowski 	(DAM)	
Dan Mowczan		(DM)
Daniel Edward Reinholtz (DER)
Tony Salvaro		(TS)
Mike St.Clair		(MSC)
Jay Tilton		(JT)
Casey Wales		(CW)
Bert Whetstone		(BW)

-----------------
TABLE OF CONTENTS
-----------------

FOREWARD
by Sean Kelly

1.0)	General Information
	1.1 -- What is the Atari 5200 SuperSystem?
	1.2 -- Did you know?

2.0)	Cartridge Information
	2.1 -- Atari 5200 game list
	2.2 -- Label/game/box variations
	2.3 -- Games believed not to exist
	2.4 -- The best and worst 5200 games
	2.5 -- General software info, tidbits, cheats and easter eggs
	2.6 -- What games were compatible with the trackball?
	2.7 -- What is the 5200 Multicart and where can I get one?
	
3.0)	Hardware Information
	3.1 -- Hardware known to exist
	3.2 -- Hardware believed not to exist
	3.2 -- General hardware tidbits
        	
4.0)	Technical Information and Hardware Specifications
	4.1 -- Hardware specifications
     	4.2 -- Hardware overview
	4.3 -- 5200 memory map
    	4.4 -- 5200 bios
	4.5 -- 5200 controller pinout
    	4.6 -- 5200 cartridge slot pinout
	4.7 -- 5200 expansion port pinout
	4.8 -- What are the differences between the 2-port and 4-port
			models?
	4.9 -- How can the 4-port model be modified to accept the
			2600 cartridge adapter?
	4.10 - 2 Port production modifications.
	4.11 - Logic board IC chip functions
	4.12 - Differences between the 5200 and Atari 8-bit computers
	4.13 - 5200 Chroma/Luma (composite video) and audio output
			modification

5.0)	Hardware Maintenance, Replacement and Repair Tips
     	5.1 -- 5200 console
	5.2 -- 5200 controllers
		5.21 -- Cleaning and maintenance
		5.22 -- Replacing and repairing
		
6.0) Alternatives to the Standard 5200 Controllers
	6.1 -- Third party joysticks
     	6.2 -- Masterplay Interface
    	6.3 -- Build your own 2600 joystick adapter
     	6.4 -- PC joystick to 5200 adapter
	6.5 -- Standard Atari 5200 joystick with microswitch-fitted
			fire buttons

7.0) Atari 5200 Emulators 
	7.1 -- VSS (a.k.a. "Virtual SuperSystem")
	7.2 -- Rainbow
	7.3 -- Pokey	

8.0)	Electronic Resources, Books and Magazines
	8.1 -- Internet resources
		8.11 -- World Wide Web Pages
		8.12 -- USENET Newsgroups
		8.13 -- Internet Relay Chat (IRC)
		8.14 -- FTP Sites

	8.2 -- Books and periodicals

9.0)	Dealers

FOREWARD
========

BY SEAN KELLY

I don't know that I would call myself anything of an expert on
the Atari 5200, but I have played virtually every game for the system
and actually like many of them whereas I'm not a real big fan of the
2600.

The one thing that comes to most people's minds when the subject
of the 5200 is brought up is it's God-forsaken controllers and
rightfully so - they're undoubtedly one of the worst ever made for
any system in my opinion.  However, the problem that I'd like to
address for a few here is the fact the it's lousy controllers have
overshadowed the system overall which is NOT cool.  Intellivision
fans have dealt with what most people consider lousy controllers and
still enjoy many of the good games Mattel put out for the system so
it doesn't make much sense why the 5200's faults can't be overlooked
in the controller department - or does it.

Atari launched the 5200 on the heels of what was (and still is)
one of the most popular videogame systems of all time - the 2600.  A
system that set a standard for controllers to be followed for
decades.  Mattel went in it's own direction from day one and pretty
much went after people looking for a little more out of their
videogames.  Not neccessarily "more" overall, but more in terms of
involvement.  While the 2600 has several different types of
controllers available for it, the systems basic capabilities just
don't offer the programmer much of a chance to get too into their
games no matter what controller they program it for.

So as game systems advanced and Atari began to realize that
there was only so much programmers were going to be able to get out
of the 2600, they came up with what was called the "Video System X"
in it's early stages of development.  The system was to have a keypad
like Intellivision and ColecoVision, probably an excellent idea on
Atari's part as it allows for a much wider array of gameplay options,
but then they apparently felt they had to revolutionize the
controller industry again and decided to attach an analog joystick to
that keypad!

The 2600's controllers are what's called "digital" meaning you
are either pressing a button or you're not.  The joystick itself is
simply a set of four buttons under the stick that you unknowingly
press when you move the joystick in a direction.  An analog signal
measures HOW FAR you're moving the joystick which, here again I have
to admit, does make for some interesting gameplay options, but since
the 5200's sticks do not spring back to the center position when you
let go of the stick it's difficult to get used to.

Who's gonna complain about the keypad they came out with though?
Start, Pause, and Reset right on the controller?  Gotta like that
a lot!

Now the games made for the 5200 are a completely different story
and pretty much the whole point of my writing here.  Most of the
games on the system are actually extremely good!  If you look at the
games released for the Atari 400/800, which uses standard joysticks,
they were excellent in many cases.  The computer didn't have the
controller problems the 5200 does and the games and computer were
very well-received.  Since the 5200 is nothing more than an Atari
400 computer with a few minor modifications, like games, for the most
part, are quite similar, if not exactly the same!  Of course, the
5200 had many games that were not available for the Atari computers
(and some games that were available for both systems were curiously
superior on the 5200), so it's definitely worth getting into if you
haven't already.  Some of the classic arcade ports are excellent and
still not to be found on any other system.  Space Dungeon immediately
springs to mind.

Some of the third-party controllers you will find described here
overcome the problems of Atari's controllers and could practically be
called life-savers for the system.  Check into a Competition Pro or
Wico controller if you absolutely cannot stand the Atari sticks.
Better still is the Masterplay Interface if you can get your hands on
one - they're pretty hard to come by.

Judging the system by it's controllers sucks in my opinion.  Try
and work around them if you can't deal with them and you'll be
treated to a library of some of the very best games ever made!

1.0) 	GENERAL INFORMATION
===========================

1.1 -- WHAT IS THE ATARI 5200 SUPERSYSTEM?
------------------------------------------

The Atari 5200 SuperSystem was released by Atari in late 1982.
It was the successor to the venerable VCS (2600) game system which
dominated the first wave of cartridge-based home videogame systems.
It offered improved graphics and several features not found on any
other system during its time.

When the 5200 was first premiered, Atari had solid reasons for
optimisim. After all, beneath the sleek, uncluttered exterior of the
5200 lurked the throbbing power of a 16K computer designed
specifically to play high-quality games.  The heart of the
SuperSystem was, in essense, an Atari 400/800 computer, the
most powerful 8-bit computer system during that time, and thus games
could theoretically be easily (and rapidly) ported between the two
machines.

The controllers have a small calculator-sized numeric keypad and
two firing buttons are located at each side.  The controller was a
gallant attempt at crossbreeding the trackball and conventional
joystick.  It uses an analog control mechanism, offering a full
360 degrees of mobility instead of the usual eight positions.  There
is a speed control built-in which, on specific cartridges, allows the
player to speed up the action.  The harder the stick is pushed to any
given direction, the faster the on-screen moving object zips across
the playfield.  Also found on the control is a "pause" button which
enables the player to put any game on hold for as long as he likes.
This now-standard feature was first pioneered on the 5200.  Atari's
attempt in revolutionizing the joystick controller, however, turned
out to be a mixed bag.  The controllers do not self-center, making
games like Pole Position and Centipede a joy to play.  On the other
hand, games which demand precise, 4-way movement from the player,
(like Pac-Man) can be an exercise in frustration for many gamers.
In addition, the joysticks are infamous for being among the most
unreliable controllers ever made.

Although the 5200 enjoyed moderate success during its heyday, the
gaming public never completely warmed to the SuperSystem, and the
Great Videogame Crash of 1983 helped to seal its fate along with the
rest of the home videogame consoles.

The software selection at launch consisted mainly of proven but
tired classics that failed to utilize the 5200's visual talents.
Titles such as Super Breakout, Galaxian and Space Invaders were
unsuccessful in generating the necessary excitement among gamers that
Atari had hoped.  Once the system passed through its introductory
period, Atari began to liberally salt the 5200 library with
glittering new gems like Qix, Space Dungeon, Robotron: 2084, Pengo,
Joust, Vanguard and Ms.Pac-Man.  Atari also had first call on games
marketed by its coin-up arm, which brought arcade hits like Dig Dug,
Pole Position and Centipede home. By the time the 5200 was settled in
with a respectable library of quality titles, however, it was too
late.  The Great Crash of 1983 was well under way, and the 5200
joined the likes of the Colecovision, Vectrex, Intellivision and
others as the home console market came crumbling down.  As a result
of the sudden shakeup in the videogame market, there is an
inordinately high number of prototypes which exist for the 5200.

Upon hindsight, it is quite elementary in regards to why the 5200
never achieved the success that Atari had hoped.  Although the
5200 was a quantum leap beyond the 2600, the lack of compatibility
with its predecessor (unlike the 7800) put off many 2600 owners who
had accumulated a substantial library of games (Atari later released
an adapter which allowed 2600 games to be played).  Furthermore, it
was not much better than the Colecovision and Vectrex.  But the real
reason that led to the doom of the 5200 (and, for that matter, the
entire videogame industry) was the result of the drop in price of
affordable game-oriented computers like the Atari 800XL and Commodore
64 -- sub-$200 machines which had, until about 1983, either been
over $500 in price or were not in existence at all.

For the retro-gamer/nostalgist of today, the 5200 is an excellent
choice.  While many of the coin-up translations have been improved
upon by modern systems, there are several compelling games that no
gamer should be without.  Space Dungeon, Rescue on Fractalus, Qix,
Beamrider, Gremlins, Bounty Bob Strikes Back (the spectacular
sequel to Miner 2049er), Pengo, Gorf, Wizard of Wor and Berzerk
(complete with voice) are fantastic games that have stood the test of
time.  Furthermore, those who purchase the Sean Kelly 5200 multicart
(a cartridge that includes almost every game in the 5200 library)
will be treated to several excellent unreleased prototype games.

1.2 -- DID YOU KNOW?
--------------------
The 5200 was developed as an answer to Intellivision, NOT the
Colecovision as many people think.  As an example of this, the
analog controller was a response to Mattel touting its unit
having 16-positions of movement compared to the 2600's eight.
Atari's plans were to upstage the Intellivision in this area by
creating an analog controller with a 360 degrees of full motion
control.

The 5200 was created at a time when poor marketing and questionable
company policy helped to eventually sink Atari.  The 5200 controller
was developed by an individual who had NEVER even played a single
videogame in his life!  Response to the controllers from focus
groups and clinics were poor, but the marketing arm stubbornly
insisted on releasing the machine with a "groundbreaking" controller
design.  In addition, the controller was partially influenced by
corporate policy in offering bonuses to its employees for creating
designs that were subsequently patented.  Not surprisingly, many
engineers and designers developed hardware that were innovative for
the sake of being "original" instead of trying to improve upon a
proven concept.

The engineers were so adamant in their disapproval of the 5200's
controllers that they wrote a petition to the director of engineering
in hopes that joystick would not be released in its present form.

The wedge-shape design of the 5200 was influenced by the 2700
(RC Stella), a prototype remote-controlled 2600.  Many other
design features, such as fire buttons being on the side and the
non-self-centering mechanism, eventually carried over to the 5200's
design.

The Atari 3600 (a.k.a. Silvia) was initially planned as the successor
to the 2600.  The bizarre 10-bit chipset (similar to the
Intellivision) was designed in 1978/79.  One must remember that the
shelf life of typical home videogame units at the time was generally
to years at most, and Atari did not anticipate the 2600 being the
huge commercial success that it eventually became.  The 3600 was
killed by the game programmers as it was difficult to program games
for the machine.

Code-names had always been popular at Warner Atari.  The VCS was
"Stella," the 400 computer was "Candy," the 800 was "Coleen" and the
5200 was "Pam."  All were named after well-endowed female employees
working at Atari.  The 5200 was unique in that Pam was strongly
considered by Atari for being the name of the machine before
eventually being passed over in favor of "5200."  Why?  Because
the "PAM" designation would have doubled as "Personal Arcade
Machine," an appropriate title for the most advanced game console
during its time.

2.0)	CARTRIDGE INFORMATION
=============================

2.1 -- ATARI 5200 GAME LIST
---------------------------

Rarity Ratings go as follows:

C-, C, C+ ---- Common
U-, U, U+ ---- Uncommon
R-, R, R+ ---- Rare
ER-, ER, ER+ - Extremely Rare
UR ----------- Unbelievably Rare
NR ----------- Not confirmed to exist, even as a prototype
PROTO -------- Prototype

For example, an ER cart would be slightly more common than an ER+
cart and slightly harder to find than an ER- game.

      GAMES THAT WERE RELEASED OR HAVE BEEN CONFIRMED TO EXIST
      --------------------------------------------------------
      --------------------------------------------------------
	
Title              	Publisher   		Product #     	Rarity
----	        	---------        	----------	------
AE                      Atari                          		PROTO
ASTROCHASE             	Parker Brothers  	9560   		R+
BALLBLAZER             	Atari            	CX 5255       	R
BAR ROOM BASEBALL  	Atari                                   PROTO
BATTLEZONE             	Atari                          		PROTO
BEAMRIDER               Activision       	FZ-009        	ER-
BERZERK            	Atari            	CX 5221       	U
BLACK BELT          	Atari     	                     	PROTO
BLUE PRINT         	CBS Electronics  	80033         	R-
BOOGIE DEMO CART        Atari   	                       	PROTO
BOUNTY BOB STRIKES BACK	Big Five Software			ER
BUCK ROGERS: PLANET 	Sega			005-02		R-
	OF ZOOM           
CENTIPEDE              	Atari            	CX 5215
* Released version                              	    	C
* "Killer-hard" version                           		PROTO
CHOPLIFTER           	Atari            	CX 5253       	R
CONGO BONGO          	Sega             	006-02        	R-
COUNTERMEASURE     	Atari            	CX 5210       	C
CRAM CARTRIDGE       	Atari                  			?
DECATHLON            	Activision       	FZ-008        	U
DEFENDER             	Atari            	CX 5218       	C
DIAGNOSTIC CARTRIDGE	Atari            	FD100144      	ER
DIG DUG              	Atari         		CX 5211       	C+
DREADNAUGHT FACTOR, THE	Activision       	FZ-005        	R-
FOOTBALL              	Atari         		CX 5207       	C
FRISKY TOM            	Atari                  			PROTO
FROGGER               	Parker Brothers  	9530          	C+
FROGGER II: THREEDEEP!	Parker Brothers  	9090          	ER-
GALAXIAN              	Atari         		CX 5206       	C
GORF                 	CBS Electronics  	80013         	R-
GREMLINS              	Atari         		CX 5257       	ER
GYRUSS                	Parker Brothers  	9080          	R
H.E.R.O.              	Activision    		FZ-007        	R
JAMES BOND 007        	Parker Brothers  	9100          	ER
JOUST                 	Atari         		CX 5240       	U-
JR. PAC-MAN           	Atari         		CX 5251       	PROTO
JUNGLE HUNT           	Atari         		CX 5222       	U-
K-RAZY SHOOTOUT      	CBS Electronics  	80503         	ER+
KABOOM!               	Activision    		FZ-001        	U
KANGAROO              	Atari         		CX 5229       	C+
KEYSTONE KAPERS       	Activision       	FZ-006        	U
LAST STARFIGHTER, THE  	Atari                 	         	PROTO
LOONEY TUNES HOTEL    	Atari                   	       	PROTO
MARIO BROTHERS        	Atari         		CX 5247       	U+
MEEBZORK              	Atari                   		PROTO
MEGAMANIA             	Activision    		FZ-003        	U
METEORITES            	Electra Concepts     			UR
MICRO-GAMMON       	Atari                  			PROTO
MILLIPEDE             	Atari         		CX 5248       	PROTO
MINIATURE GOLF         	Atari                  			PROTO
MINER 2049ER          	Big Five Soft.   	BF1912   	R
MISSILE COMMAND         Atari        		CX 5202       	C+
MONTEZUMA'S REVENGE	Parker Brothers  	9460          	R
MOON PATROL          	Atari            	CX 5241       	U
MOUNTAIN KING           CBS Electronics  	80083         	R
MR. DO'S CASTLE         Parker Brothers  	9420          	ER-
MS. PAC-MAN             Atari         		CX 5243       	U-
PAC-MAN                 Atari         		CX 5208       	C-
PENGO                   Atari         		CX 5236       	R-
PITFALL!                Activision    		FZ-004        	U
PITFALL II              Activision         	FZ-011        	U+
POLE POSITION           Atari         		CX 5217       	C+
POPEYE                  Parker Brothers  	9510          	C+
Q*BERT                  Parker Brothers  	9500          	C+
QIX                     Atari         		CX 5121       	U-
QUEST FOR QUINTANA ROO	Sunrise Software 	#1603         	R+
REALSPORTS BASEBALL 	Atari            	CX 5209       	U
REALSPORTS BASKETBALL	Atari            	CX 5219       	PROTO
REALSPORTS FOOTBALL 	Atari            	CX 5207       	C
REALSPORTS SOCCER   	Atari            	CX 5213       	C+
REALSPORTS TENNIS     	Atari            	CX 5214       	U+
RESCUE ON FRACTALUS!	Atari            	CX 5254       	ER
RIVER RAID              Activision    		FZ-002        	U
ROAD RUNNER             Atari                 			PROTO
ROBOTRON: 2084          Atari        		CX 5225       	U+
SOCCER                  Atari         		CX 5213       	C
SPACE DUNGEON           Atari         		CX 5232       	U
SPACE INVADERS          Atari         		CX 5204       	C
SPACE SHUTTLE           Activision    		FZ-012        	U+
SPORT GOOFY             Atari        		CX 5237       	PROTO
STARGATE                Atari                   CX 5252         PROTO                      
STAR RAIDERS            Atari        		CX 5205       	C+
STAR TREK               Sega         		004-02        	R
STAR WARS ROTJ: DEATH 	Parker Brothers  	9060          	ER+
  	STAR BATTLE
STAR WARS: THE 		Parker Brothers  	9040          	R+
	ARCADE GAME
SUPER BREAKOUT          Atari        		CX 5203       	C-
SUPER COBRA             Parker Brothers  	9550          	R
TRACK 'N FIELD          Atari         		CX 5258       	PROTO
VANGUARD                Atari         		CX 5216       	U-
WIZARD OF WOR           CBS Electronics  	80003         	R-
XARI ARENA              Atari                   		PROTO
XEVIOUS                 Atari         		CX 5246       	PROTO
YELLOW SUBMARINE     	Atari                   		PROTO
	DEMO CART
ZAXXON                  Sega         		008-02        	ER+
ZENJI                   Activision   		FZ-010        	ER
ZONE RANGER             Activision   		FZ-101        	R-

2.2 -- LABEL/GAME/BOX VARIATIONS
--------------------------------

As far as the Atari releases go, there are four main label variations
on the carts themselves.

1) Games with a copyright of 1982 have a large "ATARI" logo with the
	5200 on the side. In addition, the trademark information and
	copyright dates are on the bottom edge of the front label,
	underneath the illustration.

2) Games with a copyright of 1983/84 are similar to the 1982 labels,
	with a few exceptions.  The "Atari" logo (with the 5200 on
	the side) is smaller and is shifted to the top right side of
	the label.  To the left of the logo, it reads "VIDEO GAME
	CARTRIDGE" and "ATARI 5200 SUPERSYSTEM", both with rather
	small fonts.  The trademark and copyright information is on
	the left side of the label.

3) The labels on the 1986 Atari Corporation releases are exactly like
	the 1983/84 Atari Inc. carts, but with one MAJOR difference
	-- there is no title mentioned on the cart!  The top and
	sides of the label are exactly the same as the 1983/84 carts.
	The illustration on the label is the only hint of what title
	the cart actually is.  Of course, the titles are typed on the
	front of the box and on the instruction manual.  All
	Ballblazer and Rescue on Fractalus carts have this label, and
	the following titles are known to have this variation as well
	(along with the standard 1982 or 1983/4 label):

	Space Invaders
	Vanguard

4) Another minor variations that are to be found in Atari-released
	5200 carts are the greyish labels (as opposed to the normal
	silver) found in some of the Atari Corp. releases.  The label
	is dull-grey in appearance like the ones found on late
	release 2600 and 7800 games.

	A few other Atari-released label oddities exist.  For
	example, there is a 1986 release of Dig Dug which has the
	title on the cart, which is unlike most other 1986 releases.

5) Football was later renamed Realsports Football.  The title for
	Soccer was also later changed to Realsports Soccer.  The
	titles and slight alterations in the cart/box artwork
	notwithstanding, the gameplay for both titles is the same.

Both Bounty Bob Strikes Back and Miner 2049er by Big Five Software
	has two different labels.  The more common of the two
	features a picture label on a red case.  A precious few have
	a silver foil text label, which is much more difficult to
	find than the picture label cart.

Zone Ranger by Activision comes in two flavors.  The earlier release
	had a regular illustrated label, the type used in all other
	Activision games.  The later, and more common version (mostly
	seen being sold by Telegames) has a silver foil label with
	black text.

Several late Activision releases for the 5200 have unusual box and
instructions variations.  Whether it is a result of a cost-cutting
move or merely a foul-up on their part, we may never know.  Quite
a few of the late-release games come in 2600 boxes!  Although they
are supposedly new in box 5200 games, the box clearly states "for
Atari 2600."  Furthermore, some (but not all) of these boxes have
"for Atari 5200" stickers pasted on the box over where it originally
stated "for Atari 2600."

That's not all.  Some of the manuals inside the boxes have what
appears to be pages of the original (early release) manuals shrunk
down and photocopied onto one sheet of paper.  If that is not
unusual enough, quite a few of the supposedly-new Activision games
apparently were packaged with either wrong (Colecovision, etc.) or
NO manuals!  Furthermore, some of the manuals are known to be made
for all platforms in one.  In other words, the instructions state
the control mechanisms of the game for both the Colecovision and
5200 (which is not surprising as both controllers possess a joystick,
two fire buttons and a numeric keypad.

Below is the list of known games to have been found with the box
variation:

Kaboom
Pitfall
Pitfall II
River Raid
Space Shuttle (appears to be the biggest offender)

I plan on adding a full-blown 5200 label variation list to this faq
in the near future.  In the meantime, for those of you who have
information about other label oddities, by all means drop me a line!

2.3 -- GAMES BELIEVED NOT TO EXIST
----------------------------------

TITLE				PUBLISHER      		PRODUCT #
-----	   			---------      		---------
ARABIAN                 	Atari
ASTEROIDS               	Atari  			CX 5201
ASTEROIDS DELUXE       		Atari
  (Same as Asteroids?)
BLACK WIDOW             	Atari
  (Joystick connector)
BRISTLES                	First Star
BUMP 'N JUMP            	Sega
CAMPAIGN '84            	Sunrise
CHESS                   	Parker Brothers
CLOAK AND DAGGER      		Atari
  (Joystick connector)
CRYSTAL CASTLES         	Atari  		      	CX 5223
  (Trackball)
DOMINO MAN              	CBS      		80133
DRAGONSTOMPER        		Starpath
ESCAPE FROM THE MINDMASTER    	Starpath
ESPIAL                   	Tigervision
FALL GUY                 	20th Cent. Fox
FATHOM                   	Imagic
FINAL LEGACY             	Atari         		CX 5256
FLIP AND FLOP            	First Star
FOOTBALL (for VS-X)		Atari
GRAVITAR                 	Atari
INDIANA JONES AND THE		Atari
	TEMPLE OF DOOM
JAWBREAKER               	Sierra On-Line
LASER GATES              	Imagic
LEGACY, THE              	Atari
  (Same as Final Legacy?)
LOCOMOTION			Atari
LODE RUNNER              	Broderbund
MADDEN FOOTBALL 		CBS          		80123
MAD PLANETS			Parker Brothers
MAJOR HAVOC              	Atari
MOONSWEEPER              	Imagic
OMEGA RACE               	CBS           		80093
PARTY MIX			Starpath
POLARIS                  	Tigervision   		700752
PURSUIT OF THE PINK PANTHER     Probe 2000 (Odyssey)
QUANTUM                  	Atari
  (Trackball)
QUICK STEP               	Imagic
RABBIT TRANSIT           	Starpath
RISK                     	Parker Brothers
RIVER PATROL             	Tigervision  		700452
SATAN'S HOLLOW           	CBS           		80143
SCRAPER CAPER            	Big Five
SERPENTINE               	Broderbund
SOLAR FOX                	CBS           		80023
SPACE DUEL               	Atari
SPRINGER                 	Tigervision     	700652
SPY HUNTER               	Sega
SUPER PAC-MAN            	Atari
SURVIVAL ISLAND          	Starpath
STAR WARS: THE EMPIRE 		Parker Brothers
	STRIKES BACK
SUBTERFUGE               	Amiga
SWEAT: THE DECATHLON GAME	Starpath
TANK				Atari			CX 5210
TAC-SCAN                 	Sega
TAPPER                   	Sega
TEMPEST                  	Atari         		CX 5220
TOY BIZARRE              	Activision
TUNNEL RUNNER			CBS
TUTANKHAM                	Parker Brothers 	9540
UP 'N DOWN               	Sega
WARP WARS                	Activision
WINGS                    	CBS
WING WAR                 	Imagic
WRATH OF QUINTANA ROO  		Sunrise

2.4 -- THE BEST AND WORST 5200 GAMES
------------------------------------
5200 gamers were asked to rate each game that they had played, in
both graphics and gameplay, on a scale of 1-5, with 5 being best.
Below are the results (ranked in order of their average gameplay
scores).

In the future, when I get enough voters on each game, I will probably
drop the high and low score to eliminate skew.

Games will only qualify if it has been rated by three different
individuals.  Otherwise, the sampling error would be too large.

If you too would like to contribute to this FAQ by rating the games,
by all means drop me a line!  We need more people to get themselves a
Sean Kelly multicart to get some more ratings for the rare titles as
well.

				Gameplay	Graphics	# Raters
				--------	--------	--------
1.  Montezuma's Revenge		4.71		4.43		(7)
2.  Rescue on Fractalus		4.6		4.2		(5)
3.  Space Dungeon		4.5		4.08		(12)
4.  Zaxxon			4.43		4.57		(7)
5.  Pitfall II			4.33		4.33		(12)
6.  Star Raiders		4.27		3.8		(15)
    Qix				4.27		3.73		(11)
8.  Ballblazer			4.25   		4.5		(8)
9.  Wizard of Wor		4.22		4		(9)
10. Defender			4.15		4		(13)
11. Gyruss			4.14		3.29		(7)
12. Centipede			4.13		3.6		(15)
13. Moon Patrol			4.1		3.9		(10)
13. Robotron: 2084		4.1		3.7		(10)
15. Jr. Pac-Man (Proto)		4		3.75		(4)
    Millipede (Proto)		4		3.5		(4)
    Gremlins			4		3.8		(5)
    Choplifter			4		3.14		(7)
    Miner 2049er		4		3.36		(11)
    Frogger II			4		4		(7)
    Mountain King		4		2.89		(9)
    Pengo			4		3.89		(8)
23. Pitfall			3.9		3.6		(10)
24. Joust			3.87		3.87		(15)
25. Ms. Pac-Man			3.83		4.08		(12)
    Beamrider			3.83   		3.5		(6)
27. Kaboom			3.82		3.27		(11)
28. Bounty Bob Strikes Back	3.8		3.8		(5)
    Zone Ranger			3.8		3.8		(10)
30. River Raid			3.79		3.64		(14)
31. H.E.R.O.			3.75		3.75		(4)
32. Mario Bros.			3.73		3.55		(11)
33. Dig Dug			3.71		3.71		(14)
    Missile Command		3.71		3.36		(14)
35. Megamania			3.7		3.6		(10)
36. Xari Arena	(Proto)		3.67		3.33		(3)
    Xevious (Proto)		3.67		3		(3)
    Star Trek: SOS		3.67		3.56		(9)
39. Pac-Man			3.6		3.73		(15)
40. Keystone Kapers		3.56		3.78		(9)
41. Berzerk			3.54  	 	3.08		(13)
42. Jungle Hunt			3.5		3.83		(12)
    Vanguard			3.5		3.58		(12)
    Dreadnaught Factor, The	3.5		4		(8)
    Pole Position		3.5		3.43		(14)
46. Realsports Baseball		3.44		3.44		(9)
47. Q*bert			3.38		3.46		(13)
48. Last Starfighter (Proto)	3.33		3.33		(3)
49. Galaxian			3.31		3.38		(16)
50. Buck Rogers			3.3		3.3		(10)
51. Frogger			3.25		3.83		(12)
    Gorf			3.25		3.38		(8)
53. Kangaroo			3.2		2.87		(15)
54. Blue Print			3.08		3.5		(12)
55. Realsports Tennis		3		3.33		(6)
    Mr. Do's Castle		3		2.86		(7)
    Super Cobra			3		3.33		(6)
    Super Breakout		3		2.71		(17)
59. Popeye			2.92		3.15		(13)
60. Star Wars The Arcade Game	2.89		3.11		(9)
61. Realsports Soccer		2.88		2.62		(8)
62. Countermeasure		2.79		2.93		(14)
63. Astrochase			2.75   		3.62		(8)
    Meteorites			2.75		2.25		(4)
    Star Wars: Death Star	2.75		2.75		(4)
66. Realsports Football		2.73		2.64		(11)
67. Space Invaders		2.69		2.62		(13)
68. Road Runner (Proto)		2.67		2.67		(3)
    Zenji			2.67		2.67		(3)
70. Decathlon			2.6		3		(5)
71. Battlezone	(Proto)		2.5    		2		(4)
72. Space Shuttle		2.43		3.43		(7)
73. James Bond 007		2.29		2.57		(7)
74. Congo Bongo			2.27		2.27		(11)
75. Quest for Quintana Roo	1.2		2.4		(5)
76. Miniature Golf (Proto)	1		1.33		(3)

PROVISIONALLY RATED (not enough people rating them)
-------------------
				Gameplay	Graphics	# Raters
				--------	--------	--------
Centipede ("Killer")		5		3		(1)
Track and Field (Proto)		3.5		3.5		(2)
K-Razy Shootout			3.5		2		(2)
Sport Goofy (Proto)		2		2		(2)
Looney Tunes Hotel (Proto) 	2		1.5		(2)
Microgammon (Proto)		2.5		3		(2)
Spitfire (Proto)		2		3		(2)
Meebzork (Proto)		2		1.5		(2)
Realsports Basketball (Proto)	1.5		1.5		(2)

Comments from the gamers 
------------------------
The ratings after each comment are that person's OWN observations of
the games.

A "5/4" would stand for Graphics=5/Gameplay=4.
			----------------------

Astrochase
	(TL) - I don't understand it.  What's the point?  Graphics
		are good though. (no rating)

Ballblazer
	(BW) - One of my all time favorites on any platform! (5/4)
	(KI) - Split screen, first person perspective and two player
		simultaneous gameplay.  Who could ask for anything
		more? (5/4)

Battlezone (Prototype)
	(DM) - How did they manage to make this game this bad?
		Redefined character sets made the tanks and obstacles
		unscalable, and just made the whole thing look like a
		bad game you typed in on your 8-bit from Antic
		magazine or something. (1/3)
	(KI) - No wonder this game was never released. (2/2)

Berzerk
	(TL) - This cool game taught me how to fight like a robot
		instead of a chicken. (4/4)
	(EB) - Best home version of this game.  Speech is cool! (4/4)

Bounty Bob Strikes Back
	(KHe) - All I can say is "WOW!"  I thought Miner 2049er was
		great (and it still is), but Bounty Bob is king!
		This game is incredibly fun AND challenging.  It
		takes the best elements of Miner, then expands on
		them.  There is so much I like about this game:
		Lots-o-levels, lots of strategy, humor, warps,
		special configuration page.  Even the high score
		entry and display pages are great.  This game is a
		definite 5/5 for graphics/playability.  Thank you
		Bill Hogue! (5/5)
	(DER)- Game play is really difficult.  Takes all the fun of
		Miner 2049er out, sometimes it's hard to tell the
		difference between the two except for the different
		colors. It's really difficult to jump from one level
		to another. I'll say it again.  Game play is really
		difficult. (2/1)

Buck Rogers 
	(DER)- A game I like except I wish they would have taken it
		further and made the graphics a bit better a la
		Ballblazer.  A distant predecessor to games like
		1942. (3/4)

Centipede
	(DM) - My 5/5 rating is really based on the fact that this is
		a port, its just a plain good 5200 version.  Smooth
		moving enemies, fantastic sound, and the trackball
		makes this probably one of my favorite 5200 titles.
		(5/5)
	(KHe)- Gameplay improves when using trackball (3/2)
	(EB) - Different from (and better than) the 8-Bit version.
		(3/4)
	(JJ) - Beats Atari Computer version by a mile. (5/5)

Congo Bongo
	(JT) - Hate this damn game.  Cheesey 3-d perspective doesn't
		work at all. (2/1)
	(DER)- It's an OK game.  I liked playing it in the arcade,
		but the 5200 version is kinda lame.  The opening
		level seems like a big splotch of yellow with some
		brown added to it. (2/3)
	(EB) - Awful, just awful. (2/1)

Countermeasure
	(TL) - The 5200's version of Combat. (4/2)

Decathlon
	(KI) - If you want to kill your joystick by playing this
		game, be my guest.  Don't say that I didn't warn you,
		though.  Decent enough game for those who don't mind
		the risk of destroying their joysticks.  (3/3)

Defender
	(DER)- I consider this game the "feel-good" game of the Atari
		series.  It seems no matter how bad you are playing,
		you can always rack up a high score. I like defender
		a lot, it's one of my all time faves. (3/5)
	(TL) - Not a big fan of the game but the graphics are
		outstanding! (5/3)
	(KI) - Beautiful scrolling and the absence of flicker (unlike
		the 2600 version) makes this faithful port of the
		coin-up a winner! (4/4)

Dig Dug
	(DER)- I've seen better ports of this than the 5200 version,
		but there's something about Dig Dug I like that I
		can't put a finger on.  An entertaining game
		nonetheless. (3/3)

Frogger
	(JT) - Friggin' retarded control scheme (5/2)
	(TL) - What a sissy concept for a game (3/2)
	(KHe)- Looks good, but button/joystick combo that you have to
		use to control is a pain.  Keypad controlling is even
		worse. (4/2)
	(KI) - Play this game with the Masterplay and you'll change
		your mind, guys :) (4/4)

Frogger II
	(DER)- I like this game a lot.  One of the last games I got
		before they became impossible to get.  As a matter of
		fact, this game *IS* quite impossible to get.  I like
		the graphics and it's a big improvement over the
		first one. (4/4)
	(KI) - Great sequel, but this game is bound to frustrate even
		the best gamers with it's absurd difficulty level.
		(4/4)

Galaxian 
	(BW) - Looks and plays like Galaxian, but just lacks
		something (4/3)
	(DER)- This game is haunted by the fact that the game play
		and screens never change. (See also Space Invaders).
		I like this better than Space Invaders. (3/3)

Gorf
	(TL) - I can't give a 5/5 because they forgot the galaxian
		level.  Otherwise it is Awesome! (5/4)

Gyruss 
	(JT) - Fantastic music. (5/4)
	(KI) - Along with Ballblazer, Pengo and Moon Patrol, this
		game is a showcase title of the 5200's remarkable
		audio capabilities. (3/4)

James Bond
	(KI) - If the criteria of a good game is one that is
		IMPOSSIBLY difficult, then Parker Brothers would rank
		as one of the top third party publishers of all-time
		(the same goes for Frogger II and Super Cobra).  An
		awful game to boot. (3/2)

Joust
	(KI) - A faithful home port of the Williams hit coin-up. 
		(4/4)

Jungle Hunt
	(KHe)- Is it just me or is the final scene much more
		difficult than the original? (4/3)
	(KI) - Most people either love this game or they despise it.
		I'm quite indifferent towards this title, however.
		(4/3)

K-Razy Shootout
	(KI) - A ripoff of Berzerk (2/3)

Kaboom!
	(DM) - Although many people believe playing Kaboom! without a
		paddle is some kind of sacrelige, I love this version
		of the game.  With the 5200 Joystick, you're simply
		controlling the same potentiometer in the controller,
		but with a knob on the 2600 and a stick on the 5200.
		Output is analog either way.  Plus, the 1812 overture
		really gets me pumped up! (4/5)
	(KI) - The option of allowing a second player to play as the
		Mad Bomber is a cool feature not found in any other
		home videogame console version. (3/4)

Kangaroo
	(TL) - This game is down right stupid.  The graphics are even
		worse.  I bet they had Commodore shaking in their
		boots at the time. (1/1)
	(KI) - Controlling Mama-roo is tricky with the standard 5200
		joystick, but this game truly shines with the
		Masterplay Interface. (4/4)

Mario Bros.
	(KHe)- Great port.  Fun, especially with two players. (4/5)

Megamania
	(TL) - Cool graphics, but redundant as #@$%. (4/3)
	(DM) - I love this game.  Apart from the fact that the game
		just feels a little different from the 2600 version
		that we're all used to, this game is terrific in
		every way.  And aside from the game, the label and
		box art are quite superior to their 2600
		counterparts.  If this one had come out first,
		they would have laughed the 2600 version out the
		door. (5/5)

Meteorites
	(KI) - A decent Asteroids clone.  Speaking of which, whatever
		happened to Asteroids??? (3/4)

Microgammon (Prototype)
	(DM) - I'm glad they used the highest resolution possible for
		at least one game.  The computer may not be a very
		good backgammon player, but they really had a great
		idea here and I'm sorry it wasn't released. (5/3)

Millipede (Prototype)
	(KI) - Absolutely phenomenal.  The trackball option puts this
		version above the technically superior NES edition.
		(4/5)

Miner 2049er
	(DER)- This game is everything that BBSB isn't.  Easy to
		play, not too difficult, ok graphics, just a lot of
		fun. (2/4)
	(KHe)- Great game!  Was my favorite as a kid. (5/5)

Missile Command
	(TL) - This game has it all!  Easily my favorite 5200 game
		and among my favorites of all time.  Anyone have a
		track ball for sale? (5/5)
	(DM) - With two buttons and a keypad available, one missile
		base in inexcusable.  They even fit two bases into
		the Atari ST version, using each button on the mouse.
		Why couldn't Atari port they're own game worth a
		shit? (3/2)

Mountain King
	(KHe)- Fun, are the higher levels winnable? (3/5)

Mr. Do's Castle
	(DM) - After seeing the Colecovision version, this is just
		plain sad.  The 5200 could certainly have moved the
		Domeister and the chameleon unicorns around better
		than they did. (2/3)

Ms.Pac-Man
	(DER)- The successor to Pac-Man is more challenging than the
		original, and game-play is better. (3/4)

Pac-Man
	(TL) - The screen is just too wide.  And what happend to the
		great sound effects that were included in the 2600
		version? (2/3)

Pengo
	(KHe)- Fun! I liked the arcade game, but wasn't too good at
		it. Played this version a lot! great port. (3/5)
	(KI) - A pixel perfect port of the coin-up classic (5/4)

Pitfall! 
	(BW) - I actually like 2600 Pitfall better! (3/3)

Pitfall II
	(KI) - For an additional challenge, try the secret
		Adventurer's stage! (4/5)

Pole Position
	(BW) - Made me want a 5200 back in the day.  (4/4)

Popeye
	(TL) - Graphics leave a bit to be desired. (2/3)
	(KI) - Never liked Nintendo's coin-up version, so the 5200
		one doesn't do much for me. (3/3)

Q*bert
	(JT) - Retarded controls (like Frogger) (4/2)
	(KHe)- Not one of my favorite games, but seems to be a good
		port.  Of course, it's missing the "thwack" of the
		original when Qbert/Coily jumps off the pyramid
		side of the pyramid. (3/3)
	(EB) - About the same as colecovision version. (3/4)

Qix
	(TL) - A true classic.  Decent graphics.  Great Concept!
	 	One of the best ever! (5/5)

Realsports Baseball
	(DER)- This game is fun!  I like playing the higher levels,
		because the easy level is too easy. On the easy
		level, you can bunt for home runs.  The voice in the
		game is cool, but can get old after a long time of
		playing. (4/4)

Realsports Basketball (Prototype)
	(DER)- I played this game for two weeks as part of an Atari
		survey my Dad got in '83 or '84 in the Northwest
		Suburbs of Chicago.  The graphics were terrible, and
		the gameplay wasn't too much better.  I suppose it
		would have been better if I had really good
		joysticks, or that I should have played it on the
		two-port version. (2/2)

Realsports Football
	(DER)- This game is just above average.  The playbooks are
		cool, but I can run the same play over and over again
		and demolish the computer.  I don't understand how a
		player can run around the screen and end up on the
		other side. (2/2)

Realsports Soccer
	(DER)- I'm a big fan of soccer, and this game is an ok
		version.  It seems that most of the time the other
		players are out just wandering around. (2/3)

Rescue on Fractalus
	(KI) - The system of fractile geometry which generates the
		planetary landscape in this game was a gaming first.
		(5/5)

River Raid
	(BW) - I don't like the jagged river edges, and the stick
		ruins it for me. (3/4)

Space Dungeon
	(TL) - Berzerk in outer space with a little more meat to it.
		(4/4)
	(JJ) - Simply put, this game rules!!!! (5/5)
	(KI) - Robotron meets Berzerk meets Zelda.  A closet classic
		that begs to be played by everyone. (5/5)

Space Invaders
	(DER)-I know its an older game, but Galaxian and Megamania
		picked up where this one left off.  Gameplay is ok
		and graphics are weak, but that's what it's like to
		be an original. (2/2)
	(KHe)- Not really like the original but kind of fun.  The
		space ship comes out constantly! (3/3)
	(KI) - Wish they would have left a good thing alone.  A
		failed attempt at sprucing up the original. (2/2)

Star Raiders
	(BW) - Great, even with the 5200 stick! (5/5)
	(DER)- Predecessor to X-Wing and Wing Commander.  Really
		involved for a 5200 game.  It had one of the largest
		manuals for any game, 40-some pages. (3/5)
	(KHe)- I guess this is considered to be a "classic", but I
		just can't get into this game.  Yuck! (1/1)

Star Trek: Strategic Operations Simulator
	(EB) - Boring translation of a game that has no good ports
		(vector to raster). (3/2)

Star Wars: The Arcade Game
	(DM) - After this guy got fired from Atari for Battlezone, he
		must have went to Parker Bros.  Same crappy blocky
		battlezone graphics ruined this one too. (2/3)
	(KI) - It looks like the arcade, and it sure sounds like it,
		too.  But it plays nothing like the vector coin-up.
		(3/2)

Super Breakout
	(KHo)- The 2600 version blows this one out of the water!
		(1/1)
	(BW) - How do you rate graphics on Breakout?  Of course
		they're blocky... (4/3)

Vanguard 
	(TL) - I liked the 2600 version better but credit is due for
		a great game like Vanguard. (5/3)
	(KHe)- Captures the spirit of the original.  Sadly, the four
		fire button arrangement of the original can't be
		duplicated.  I hate how the ship doesn't move easily
		while firing. (3/3)

Wizard of Wor
	(TL) - Cool Game. Decent graphics (4/4)

Xari Arena (Prototype)
	(DM) - Good marks just based on originality.  What a nifty
		game this was. (4/5)
	(KI) - If you liked Warlords, you'll absolutely love this
		prototype. (3/4)

Zaxxon
	(KHo)- Blows away the Colecovision and C-64 versions by a
		mile! (5/5)

Zone Ranger
	(TL) - Playability is awesome (4/4)

2.5 --	GENERAL INFO, TIDBITS, CHEATS AND EASTER EGGS
-----------------------------------------------------

A.E. (Prototype)
	A prototype that is similar to the Atari computer version,
	one was recently auctioned off by Best Electronics.  Only a
	precious few are known to exist.
	
Asteroids
	MIGHT exist as a prototype, but we're still searching for a
	person who has this game.

Bar Room Baseball (Prototype)
	A prototype exclusively intended for use with the 5200 Arcade
	Unit, a coin-operated machine which was sold in Latin
	American countries.  Virtually identical to Realsports
	Baseball with the exception of a timer which restricts games
	to 3 minutes in length per quarter (credit).

Battlezone (Prototype)
	Very early, and very rough.

Berzerk
	The first console game that had built-in voice without the
	need for an adapter, Berzerk is virtually a pixel-perfect
	port of the coin-up.  Highly recommended, particularly if
	you like to be taunted by Evil Otto with phrases like
	"Chicken, fight like a robot!"

	An interesting glitch exists in this game that allows you to
	make Evil Otto (that's Mr. Happy's official name) go the
	opposite direction from where you are on the screen, but
	this works only on the left exit.  Position your character
	until he's just about to exit the maze (that is, the next
	joystick movement to the left will make him leave the maze).
	Evil Otto will start to bounce towards the right instead of
	coming after you.  If you stand at the exit long enough, Evil
	Otto will wrap around to the left side of the screen.
	Whether he kills you when he touches you is uncertain; that
	wrap-around scenario has not been tested as of yet.  This
	glitch is extremely useful, especially when you want to
	finish off the robots and Evil Otto comes in sooner than you
	anticipate.  It takes practice to position your character
	perfectly to make Evil Otto go the other way, but you'll
	get it with practice.

	Another tip that can help in mastering the game is the
	character's neck.  Or should I say lack thereof?  :-)
	Seriously, that open space below his head can be useful when
	facing robots straight to the left or right.  If you position
	the character just right, the robot's lasers will go right
	through without killing him.  It's very tough to master,
	especially on higher levels when the lasers are traveling at
	the same speed yours do.

	And last but not least, it's easier to avoid Evil Otto by
	going to the left or right exits than to going to the top or
	bottom.  This is due to how Evil Otto bounces when he chases
	you.  Of course, there will be times that the top or bottom
	exits will be your best retreat.

Boogie Demo Cart (Prototype)
	Plays a continuous "Boogie" tune.  One was recently auctioned
	off by Best Electronics and only a precious few are known to
	exist.

Bounty Bob Strikes Back
	To transport to another screen, grab the item mentioned, then
	press and hold the number (stated below) then press start.
	You will go to the level mentioned.

1.  Bob's Morning Calisthetics	Flower pot / 1 / start = level 6
2.  Utility Hoist		Aliens / paint roller / 3 /
				start = level 22
3.  The Suction Tubes		Goblet / 4 / start = level 15
5.  Jumping 101			Coffee Pot / 8 / start = level 8
10. The Gravity Lift		Pitch Fork / 5 / start = level 14
16. Advanced Suction Tubes	Tube 1 to left / pie / 9 / start =
							level 19
26. The End......
	"Congratulations, you are an expert!  For getting
	this far, you may start the game at any level you desire by
	setting special codes 1-25 in the Game Adjustment Screen and
	then pressing START."

	At the game adjustment screen, enter one of the following
	special codes and press * for a few secret messages:

	5  6  49  69  100  213  666  782  818  2049  6861

	An absolutely brilliant sequel to the classic Miner 2049er.
	By Bill Hogue.

Centipede, Released version
	Named the best game (covering all systems), best 5200 game
	and best graphics in a 5200 game in the first annual
	Videogaming Illustrated "Vista Awards."

Centipede, "Killer prototype" (Prototype)
	Recently discovered, this edition of Centipede is similar to
	the released version, with the exception being that it's
	HARD! (as if the released version was easy to begin with).
	The Centipedes slide down the screen at a frantic pace, and
	the spiders have even better AI along with faster movement.

Cram Cartridge
	Diagnostic cartridge with automatic turn-on jumper.

Defender
	Second runner-up in the best 5200 game category in the first
	annual Videogaming Illustrated "Vista Awards."

Diagnostic Cartridge
	Note: There are several revisions of this cart!

Football
	Score 199 points or more without allowing the other team to
	score more than 3 during a practice game in regulation time.
	Instead of "Game Over", you will get the message "DESIGNED BY
	THE WARLORD."  In addition, you must score the last touchdown
	with no time left.

	Later renamed Realsports Football.

Football (for Video System X)
	Photos of this game, along with the Video System X (the
	working title of the 5200) were shown in magazines before the
	5200 was eventually released.  The cart had a completely
	different label from 5200 Football, and it is not known
	whether the game is any different from the 5200 version (or
	if it was just a cart shell mockup, for that matter)

Frisky Tom (Prototype)
	A prototype based on the coin-up game by Nichibutsu, one
	proto was recently auctioned off by Best Electronics.  Only a
	precious few are in existence.

Frogger
	One had the option of using the keypad buttons to control the
	direction of Frogger's movement.  Press button #2 to hop
	Frogger forward, button #8 to hop him backward, button #4 to
	hop Frogger left and button #6 to hop him right.

Frogger II: Threedeep!
	Three distinctly different screens take Frogger on another
	homeward bound journey, but this time it's underwater, over
	water, and through the air.  As in Frogger, the player can
	choose to use the keypad buttons to control Frogger.

Jr. Pac-Man (Prototype)
	Just about complete, but it wasn't released commercially.

	An absolutely phenomenal conversion of the coin-up.  THE best
	version of Pac-Man anywhere.

Kaboom!
	The SuperSystem version is similar to the 2600 edition, but
	has an added feature which allows two players to take turns
	playing the Mad Bomber (dropping the bombs), and moving the
	water buckets (catching the bombs).  By Paul Wilson

	By scoring 1800 or more points in 1 player mode and sending
	in a picture of the score, the player was awarded the Bucket
	Brigade Patch from Activision.

The Last Starfighter (Prototype)
	Adapted from the computer Star Raiders II, complete except
	for the lack of shields.

Locomotion
	Mattel had the rights to this game, but curiously, a box of
	this game from Atari exists.  No word on whether a cart
	exists.

Looney Tunes Hotel (Prototype)
	Very close to being complete.

Meebzork (Prototype)
	Has a few bugs that cause freezes and black-outs.

Millipede (Prototype)
	Complete.  Exceptional port of the coin-up hit.  Especially
	fun with the trackball.

Miner 2049er
	Start a zone.  Jump onto the first platform and position
	Bounty Bob so that no creatures will touch him (do NOT pause
	game). Hold UPPER red joystick button down while entering Big
	Five's phone number (2137826861) on the keypad.  You will
	know you did it right because it will immediately restart the
	zone again when you enter the last digit in the phone number.

	Congratulations, you now have a way to "warp" to any
	zone/station in the game!

	HOW TO USE IT
	Push the reset button on the joystick and select 1-0 on the
	keypad for the zone you want to play.
	(1=zone 1, 2=zone 2...0=zone 10).
	Now hold the upper red button down while pressing 1-0 on the
	keypad.  This will allow you to select which station to play.
	You will immediately warp to the selected station!  The
	warping ability will work at *ANY* time during a game!  This
	is extremely useful for getting "unlimited" lives.  (HINT: If
	you die on a level and IMMEDIATELY warp Bounty Bob, the game
	will keep track of your score, but won't take away a life!)

	NOTES:  Miner is great fun at the difficult levels.  Some
	levels are NOT clearable.  After lots of playing, I found
	that these are the levels that are possible:

	ZONE    STATION
	----    -------
	1-8     ALL
	9       1-9
	10      1-4,8,9

	Zone 8/station 10 is the hardest, but *IS* possible.
	Zone 10/station 4 requires a lot of thinking/strategy to
	clear. Try it, it's fun!

	For some reason on Zone 10, Bounty Bob walks very fast and
	jumps a LOOONG way.  This makes certain levels difficult and
	others impossible.  However, on zone 10/station 10, the
	creatures just move too fast to make it possible to clear.
	It's a shame, I always wondered what would happen if you
	cleared it.

Miniature Golf (Prototype)
	Very early in development, with hardly any colors at all.
	Inferior to the 2600 version in its present form.

Mountain King
	When first starting Mountain King, let it go through the
	"opening demonstration" where the MK guy jumps/dances to the
	music and eventually jumps to the top of the hill where the
	flame is.  Once the "show" ends, maneuver the guy to the very
	bottom where the spider's "cave" is.  Stand on top of where
	the spider comes out.  Make the MK guy(does he have a name?)
	stand on the far right of the cave so that he is mostly
	balancing in mid air with only his left foot barely touching
	the top of the cave.  (See diagram 1...hopefully it will look
	right when viewed on your computer.)
	(1)                            (2)
	           0  <- MK guy 
	          -|-
	          / \                            
	___________                        _____________0       
	 spider  _                                    _-|-
	  cave    _                                    _/ \
	         _                                    _
	_________________________          ________________________ 

	Ok, once you have him in position, pull down briefly/slightly
	(like you were going to make him squat) on the joystick once
	or twice and the guy should walk PART WAY DOWN the side of
	the cave and "hang" there.  If he goes all the way to the
	floor, then try it again. (See diagram 2)

	Now walk to the left.  He should fall through/into the cave.
	Keep going left...you might have to jump to the left to get
	him to keep moving left.  As you're going left, he should
	fall THROUGH the bottom of the screen.  As you are falling,
	you should see a special message that tells who programmed
	the game!

	NOTES:  When you do this, there is no way back out. Actually,
	I think you catch on fire and die.  :)   This doesn't work
	right if you don't let the game do the demonstration/music
	sequence at the beginning.

Pac-Man
	On the Cherry screen, take off to the right and head straight
	up and into the right-hand tunnel.  As you go off-screen,
	you'll hear a chomp.  Pause the game and examine the dots to
	the left of the starting point.  You'll find a missing dot.

	On the fifth key round, the ghosts start flashing immediately
	after Pac eats a power pellet, and they don't stop.  Unless
	Pac eats them, they stay in a vulnerable state for the entire
	round. It doesn't happen in the sixth key round (after the
	intermission), but does for the seventh key and beyond.  You
	have to be pretty stupid to die accidentally from then on.

	Named first runner up in the best 5200 game category and best
	arcade adaptation (all systems) in the first annual
	Videogaming Illustrated "Vista" Awards.

Popeye
	Missing the Sea Hag found in level 3 of the coin-up.

Pursuit of the Pink Panther
	Originally, slated for an early 1984 release, the lack of
	adequate supply of ROM chips was blamed by the company as the
	reason for its cancellation.  2600 and Colecovision editions
	were also announced but they too never saw the light of day.

Q*Bert
	Invisible Pyramid -- On the first screen, hop down four
	squares and on to the disc.  As soon as the disc turns
	yellow, press PAUSE and START the game over.  Keep pressing
	the HOP button the whole time you are doing this.  When the
	game starts again, jump down 2 squares to the right, then
	back 1 square.  Jump onto the middle square and then change
	the colors of the squares opposite the ones on the right.
	Now hop up to the top square and off to the left onto the
	invisible pyramid.

Quest for Quintana Roo
	"Help Yucatan Sam explore the dozens of terror filled
	chambers that create the mystical temple of the Mayan god
	Quintana Roo.  You must use your supplies as well as your
	cat-like reactions to avoid the sleeping snakes, overcome the
	mummy's curse, and eliminate the other adversaries while
	attempting to solve the mystery that will deliver this hidden
	treasure to you and Yucatan Sam.  Do you dare to get 
	involved?"

	Passwords:
		Level 2 -- 1830 	Level 3 -- 8817

Roadrunner (Prototype)
	With the exception of missing sound, the game is basically
	complete.

Realsports Basketball (Prototype)
	Appears to have been scrapped very early.

	Start the Demo and press the number 5 key for a secret
		message: "When Running Into the Tropical Entropy
		Nightly, By Yourself, Project And Try Reaching Into
		Circles Killed Because All Seems Strange."

		The first letter of each word spells out -- "Written
		By Patrick Bass."

	Also during the demo, the * key toggles the word REALSPORTS
	on or off.

	The tones generated by the keypad are actual dialing
	telephone dialing tones.  Try it! :)

Realsports Football
	See Football.

Realsports Soccer
	See Soccer

Robotron: 2084
	Not as good as the 7800 version, but is actually more
	enjoyable due to the joystick connector allowing you
	dual-joystick action like the coin-up.  Packaged with the
	joystick connector.

Soccer
	On par with NASL Soccer for Intellivision.  Particularly
	enjoyable using the trackball controller.

	Later renamed Realsports Soccer.

Space Dungeon
	The only known home console version of this Taito sleeper
	coin-up hit.  Packaged with a joystick connector which
	enables dual-joystick control ala Robotron.

Spitfire  (Prototype)
	This game is very incomplete.  Hardly any gameplay involved,
	but has some nice graphics

Sport Goofy (Prototype)
	Mostly complete with the exception of a few bugs.

Stargate (Prototype)
	Recently discovered, it is apparently complete.

Star Raiders
	Originally a smash hit on the Atari 400/800 computers, Star
	Raiders is enshrined in the Electronic Games Magazine
	Videogame Hall of Fame.

Super Cobra
	A truly awful port of the Konami coin-up.  Incredibly
	difficult.

Tank
	The original (tentative) name of Countermeasure before its
	release.  Who knows, perhaps a prototype of this version
	exists somewhere! =)

Tempest  (Prototype???)
	We're still searching for this one!

Toy Bizarre
	Made it to the C64, but not 5200.
	  
Track N Field (Prototype)
	Complete.

Xari Arena (Prototype)
	A Warlords-type 4-player game.  Although unfinished, what's
	there is quite enjoyable.

Xevious (Prototype)
	Complete as far as we can tell.

Yellow Submarine Demo (Prototype)
	One was recently auctioned off by Best Electronics.  Only a
	precious few are known to exist.

2.6 -- WHAT GAMES WERE COMPATIBLE WITH THE TRACKBALL?
-----------------------------------------------------

* -- Trackball recommended
# -- Some gamers prefer to play it with the trackball, some don't.
X -- Works with the trackball but not recommended.

* Centipede
# Football/Realsports Football
X Galaxian
* Millipede
* Missile Command
Pole Position
# Soccer/Realsports Soccer
X Space Invaders
# Super Breakout

2.7 -- WHAT IS THE 5200 MULTICART AND WHERE CAN I GET ONE?
----------------------------------------------------------

The Atari 5200 multi-cart is a single cartridge with the entire
Atari 5200 library on it less one title - Bounty Bob Strikes Back.
It comes packaged in a regular 5200 cartridge casing.  Very basically
it can be looked at as a comparatively inexpensive way to be able to
play all the 5200 games.  Titles such as Meteorites, Stars Wars Death
Star Battle, and others are going to cost you an arm and a leg IF you
are able to locate someone with a copy of them, but they are all
included on the multi-cart, in their entirety mind you, for one
flat-fee.

As far as collectability goes, the multi-cart is still being made and
will continue to be for the forseable future so it's worth exactly
what you pay for it - no more.

If you are interested in purchasing one or would like more
information about it, you can email Sean Kelly at skelly@xnet.com or
check out his homepage at http://www.xnet.com/~skelly/ where he has
information on it and all the other multi-carts he makes.

3.0)	HARDWARE INFORMATION
==============================

3.1 -- HARDWARE KNOWN TO EXIST
------------------------------

NAME				COMPANY  	PRODUCT #   	RARITY
----				-------        ---------    	------
ATARI 5100 (AKA 5200 Jr.)      	Atari        	CX 5100      	PROTO
ATARI 5200 CARRYING CASE       	Atari
ATARI 5200 SUPERSYSTEM (2-Port)	Atari          	CX 5200
ATARI 5200 SUPERSYSTEM (4-Port)	Atari          	CX 5200
ATARI 5200 JOYSTICK            	Atari    	CX 52
ATARI 5200 JOYSTICK CONNECTOR 	Atari          	C021811
ATARI 5200 TRACK-BALL		Atari          	CX 53
ATARI 5200 TV SWITCHBOX (4-Port)Atari		CX-522
ATARI VCS CARTRIDGE ADAPTER   	Atari          	CX 55
ATARI VIDEO SYSTEM X		Atari				PROTO
COMPETITION PRO JOYSTICK       	Coin Controls  		   	ER
CONTROL GUIDE                  	Entert. Systems             	?
DUST COVER                     	Classic Covers 	20027
FROB, THE                      	FrobCo                      	?
MASTERPLAY INTERFACE           	Electra Concepts		UR
SPECTRAVISION 5200 HOTEL UNIT	Spectravision               	UR
WICO COMMAND CONTROL JOYSTICK	Wico                        	R+
WICO COMMAND CONTROL		Wico                        	ER-
	NUMERIC KEYPAD

3.2 -- HARDWARE BELIEVED NOT TO EXIST
-------------------------------------

7800 CARTRIDGE ADAPTER         		Atari
COMPUTER MODULE                    	Atari
FIRE COMMAND JOYSTICK			GIM Electronics
LASER DISC PLAYER                  	Atari
TRIGA ELITE JOYSTICK			Electra Concepts
VOICE SYNTHESIZER/RECOGNITION MODULE 	Atari/Milton Bradley

3.3 -- GENERAL HARDWARE TIDBITS
-------------------------------

Atari Video System X -- The working title of the 5200 before its 
	release.  Actual photos of the VS-X, which looked exactly
	like the 5200 with the exception of the "Atari Video System
	X" text on the unit and controllers (instead of "Atari
	5200"), were shown throughout the contemporary video gaming
	magazines during early 1982.

7800 Cartridge Adapter -- Announced but never released.  This adapter
	would have allowed 5200 owners to upgrade to the 7800 without
	having to purchase the 7800 unit itself (although the
	difference in cost would have been negligible.)

Atari 5100 -- A prototype system that is compatible with the 5200.
	It was a trimmed down version of the 5200 (much like the 
	2600jr.).

Atari 5200 Carrying Case -- Made of durable plastic and shaped like a
	suitcase, it can store the console, power supply and two
	joysticks.  Similar to the cases found in Blockbuster for the
	Virtual Boy, SNES and units.

Atari 5200 Joystick Connector -- Allowed dual joystick action for
	Robotron and Space Dungeon by snapping two 5200 joysticks
	into this item.  Packaged with both Robotron and Space
	Dungeon.

Competition Pro Joystick -- An excellent third party controller,
        the Competition Pro is micro-switch-based, giving gamers a
        satisfying "click click" response to any press.
	Better than the Wico (in my opinion) but harder to find.

Control Guide -- A snap on item that converts the standard 5200
	joystick to 4-way control.

Fire Command Joystick -- Offering a slightly different feel than its
	non-analog cousin for the 2600, the 5200-compatible version
	was to feature a y-adapter that must be connected to the
	keypad for full compatibility (the same holds true for the
	Wico and Competition Pro joysticks).  Could've been a big
	winner.

Frob, The -- Allows you to program 5200 games using the Apple II
	family of computers.

Masterplay Interface -- An item who's usefulness exceeds its actual
	rarity (UR), the Masterplay is an adapter which allows the
	use of 2600 joysticks on the 5200.  (see also section 6.2)

Spectravision 5200 Hotel Unit -- A console that was used in hotels
	and motels that had a selection switch for television, movies
	and games.  Game boards were able to be added by placing them
	into a 4-game internal rack.

Voice Synthesizer/Recognition Module -- Milton Bradley and Atari were
	jointly associated with this project, where Milton Bradley
	was to develop the device while Atari was supposed to develop
	games for it. However, Atari (wisely) canned the idea shortly 
	thereafter.  A module for the 2600 was also in the works.
	Milton Bradley sued Atari as a result of this breach.

Wico Command Control Joystick -- An analog (but self-centering)
	controller which featured two fire buttons and the ability to
	calibrate the controls.  Came packaged with a y-adapter which
	enabled the use of the standard joystick keypad functions.

Wico Command Control Numeric Keypad -- A stand-alone keypad which
	substituted for the 5200 joystick keypad functions when used
	in conjunction with the Wico joystick.  Although it featured
	nine pins, it was only compatible with the Wico controller
	(a shame).  Sold seperately.

4.0)  	TECHNICAL INFORMATION AND HARDWARE SPECIFICATIONS
=========================================================

4.1 -- HARDWARE SPECIFICATIONS
------------------------------

CPU:		6502C (8-bit), 1.78 Mhz
Memory:		16K RAM
Colors:		256, 16 on-screen
Resolution:   	320x192
Sound:		4-channel
Power Supply: 	4-Port -- 11.5VDC @ 1.95A
		2-Port -- 9.3VDC @ 1.95A

Note: Ignore the power supply specs.  Both the 4 and 2 port power
	supplies are functionally identical.  As long as it's part
	#CO18187, it will power either flavor 5200.  Have trust in
	the console's voltage regulators to take care of things.

4.2 -- HARDWARE OVERVIEW
------------------------

The Atari 5200 is essentially a slightly stripped down version
of the Atari 8-bit computers (400,800, 130xe, etc.)  The
functions of the system are divided up between 4 major IC chips:

CPU:

The CPU in the 5200 is a modfied version of the standard 6502
processor. The only difference is that the Atari version of this
processor has some extra hardware that allows the ANITC chip to
take over the bus to do Direct Memory Access (DMA).

POKEY:

POKEY's main job is to generate sound and to perform a variety
of other misc funtions. The POKEY has 4 seperate sound channels,
the pitch, volume, and distortion values of each of these
channels can be controlled individually. This chip is used to
read the position of each of the joysticks, and scans the keypad
on each controller for keypresses. It's other functions
include the random number generator, IRQ handling, and 3 high
speed counters. POKEY also has a serial communications port that
is connected to the 5200's expansion port.

ANTIC:

The ANTIC can be thought of as the 5200's graphics
co-proccessor. The ANTIC has direct access to RAM where it reads
a special program called the display list. The display list
tells ANTIC exactly how to draw the display and then sends
information to the GTIA which generates the actual video
signals.  The 5200 supports 17 seperate video modes, some are
character modes, others graphic. Each mode has a different
combination of vertical size, horizontal size, and number of
colors. Using the display list these modes can be mixed freely
on a single screen, so for example a screen could have a couple
lines of text mode at the top, a block of hi-res graphics in the
middle, and more text at the bottom.  The location in memory
that display data comes from can easily be controlled through
ANTIC. The display data can be almost anywhere in memory, and it
is even possible for the data for each line to come from totally
different places in memory. This allows horizontal and vertical
scrolling to implimented very easilly. ANTIC is also responsible
for controlling Non-Maskable Interrupt to the processsor.

GTIA:

The GTIA's main responsibilty is to generate the video signals
to the TV and to handle sprites. The GTIA is where the actual
colors are put into the video signal. The 5200 has a palette of
256 colors. Most video modes only allow 4 colors, but a facility
in the ANTIC chips allows the values of these colors to be
changed on each line of the screen, so it is possible to have
all 256 colors on screen at once. The 5200 has 4 player and 4
missile sprites. Player sprites are 8 pixels wide and either 128
or 256 pixels high, missiles are 2 pixels wide and either 128 or
256 pixels high.  Each sprite can have it's own color,
independent from the normal screen colors. The GTIA chip can
detect collisions between players, missiles, and the playfield.
This chip is also responsible for reading joystick trigger
buttons, and controlling which controller is being read by the
POKEY.

4.3 -- MEMORY MAP
-----------------

Memory map:

$0000 - $3FFF 	Ram
$4000 - $BFFF	Cartridge ROM
$C000 - $C0FF	GTIA
$D400 - $D5FF 	ANTIC
$E800 - $E8FF	POKEY
$F800 - $FBFF	Character Set ROM
$FC00 - $FFFF	System ROM

4.4 -- 5200 BIOS
----------------
The 1K BIOS has three functions:

(1) To initialize the system, draw the Atari rainbow logo and
	transfer control to the cartridge. Note: Some cartridges
	bybass the Atari logo and init the system on thier own.

(2) To service interrupts.
 
(3) To maintain RAM copies (shadows) of important hardware registers.

4.5 -- 5200 CONTROLLER PINOUT
-----------------------------

Pin  Function
1    Keypad -- right column
2    Keypad -- middle column
3    Keypad -- left column
4    Start, Pause, and Reset common
5    Keypad -- third row and Reset
6    Keypad -- second row and Pause
7    Keypad -- top row and Start
8    Keypad -- bottom row
9    Pot common
10   Horizontal pot (POT0, 2, 4, 6)
11   Vertical pot (POT1, 3, 5, 7)
12   5 volts DC
13   Bottom side buttons (TRIG0, 1, 2, 3)
14   Top side buttons
15   0 volts -- ground

4.6 -- 5200 CARTRIDGE SLOT PINOUT
---------------------------------

TOP				BOTTOM

D0                       	1   36      Interlock
D1                       	2   35      A11
D2                       	3   34      A12
D3                       	4   33      A10
D4                       	5   32      A13
D5                       	6   31      A9
D6                       	7   30      Audio In (2 port)
D7                       	8   29      A8
Enable 80-BF             	9   28      Not Connected
Enable 40-7F             	10  27      A7
Not Connected            	11  26      +12VDC directly from the
						power adaptor
Ground                   	12  25      Ground
Ground                   	13  24      Ground 
						(Video In on 2 port)
Ground (System Clock 02 on 2 port) 14  23   Ground
A6                       	15  22      A4
A5                       	16  21      A3
A2                       	17  20      A1
Interlock                	18  19      A0

4.7 -- 5200 EXPANSION PORT PINOUT
---------------------------------

TOP                  		BOTTOM
+5V DC                  	1   36      +5V DC
Audio Out (2 port)      	2   35      Not connected
Ground                  	3   34      Ground
R/W Early               	4   33      Not connected
Enable E0-EF            	5   32      D7
D6                      	6   31      D5
D4                      	7   30      D3
D2                      	8   29      D1
D0                      	9   28      Ground
IRQ                     	10  27      A0
Ground                  	11  26      A1
Serial Data In          	12  25      A2
In Clock		       	13  24      A3
Serial Out Clock        	14  23      A4
Serial Data Out         	15  22      A5
Audio In                	16  21      A6
A14                     	17  20      A7
System Clock 01         	18  19      A11

4.8 -- WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE 2 PORT AND
           4-PORT MODELS?
------------------------------------------------------

The 4-port model comes with an automatic RF switchbox that is not
found in the 2-port machine.  In addition, most 4-port 5200s cannot
use the VCS cartridge adapter without modifications.  Several
other minor differences exist between the two machines.

---
(Taken from ANALOG Magazine)

Newer  releases of the 5200 incorporate some minor  hardware
changes.  Controller  ports 3 and 4  have  been  eliminated,
making  POT4 through POT7, TRIG2, TRIG3, and bit 1 of CONSOL
useless.  A  few of the connector pins have been  redefined.
Pin  2  of  the I/O expansion connector now carries  POKEY's
Audio Out signal. Three pins on the cartridge connector have
changed  to  accomodate  the new 2600  adapter.  The  system
clock, 02, is output on pin 14, isolated through a diode. An
alternate  video  input is taken from pin  24  and  is  also
isolated through a diode. Pin 30 provides an alternate audio
input.

There  is space on the newer boards for circuitry for a  PAL
(European TV standard) version of the 5200. Also, on  power-
up,  the  monitor  program checks for  the  PAL  version  by
examining  the  GTIA  register  PAL  after  step  2  of  the
initialization routine. It also checks the cartridge program
for PAL compatibility. The byte at $BFE7 should read $02  if
compatible, or $00 if not. This is the only important change
to  the  monitor program. There are some additional hardware
changes,  but none affects the machine's operation from  the
programmer's view.

4.9 -- HOW CAN THE 4-PORT BE MODIFIED TO USE THE 2600 CARTRIDGE
           ADAPTER?
---------------------------------------------------------------

Early 5200s that have four joystick ports cannot accept the VCS
(2600) adapter unless modifications can be made.  However, Best
Electronics offers an adapter kit which allows 4-port 5200s to be
modified to enable the use of the VCS adapter.

*** NOTE -- Owners of 4-port units with an "*" in the serial number
are in luck.  Atari apparently made a small run of VCS adapter-
compatible 4-port units before changing over to the 2-port units.

4.10 -- 2-PORT PRODUCTION MODIFICATIONS
---------------------------------------

There are three production modifications to the logic board of the
some 2 port 5200s. A number of people have seen these mods on their
5200s (some have not seen them) and the mods appear to have been
factory installed.

1.  Pin 11 of A5 (GITA) is lifted out of socket. This pin on the GTIA
is the trigger 3 input which is unused on the 2 port model. When it
is in the socket, is it connected to trigger 1. This mod probably had
something to do with the change from 4 ports to 2.

2.  Pin 8,9,10,11 of A7 (POKEY) are connected to pin 1 of A7 on the
back of the board. This mod connects the paddle 4,5,6,7 inputs to
ground. This mod probably has something to do with the change from
4 ports to 2.

3.  A wire is run from the feed thru below C94 to A27 pin 1, pin 1
and 2 of A27 are connected together on the back of the board, pin 10
of A15 is lifted, and connected to A27 pin 3. This modification takes
the PH1 signal from the processor, inverts it in A27, and connects it
to the CAS logic in A15.  This modifications alters the timing of CAS
to the dynamic ram. 

4.11 -- LOGIC BOARD IC CHIP FUNCTIONS
-------------------------------------

(Locations refer to the 2 port version, these may be different on the
 4 port version)

A1	4050
Video signal buffer.

A2      CO14806         CPU  6502C
This is a custom version of the standard 6502 microprocessor. It is
functionally identical to a standard 6502, except that hardware has 
been added to it to allows the ANTIC chip to do Direct Memory Access
(DMA).

A3      CO12296         ANTIC
This chip is a microprocessor that reads data directly from RAM to
determine how the screen should be drawn and controls the GTIA to
actually generate the graphics. The ANTIC is also responsible for
processing NMI's.

A5      CO14805         GITA
This chip is responsible for generating the video signal to the TV,
generating sprites, reading the joystick trigger buttons, and
controling the reading of the joysticks and keypads (the actual
reading is done by the POKEY).

A6	74LS128
Address decoding.

A7      CO12294         POKEY
This chip is responsible for generating sound, reading the position
of the joysticks, reading the keypad buttons, processing IRQ's, and
controlling the serial I/O port which is accessible through the
expansion connector.

A8      C019156A        ROM BIOS
This is a 2K ROM chip that holds the character set and the
BIOS software. The BIOS initializes the system and to service
interrupts.

A9,A10,A11	4025
Keypad scanning multiplexers.

A14	74LS128
Control signal buffering.

A15 	74LS51
DRAM control signals

A16,A17	74LS258
DRAM address multiplexers

A18-A25 MK4516          1X16k DRAM

A26	4013
Power on/off switch latch.

A27	74LS00
Misc. logic.

4.12 -- DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE 5200 AND 8-BIT COMPUTER
-------------------------------------------------------

The 5200 is basically a stripped down Atari computer. It has all the
major chips that the computers have with the exception of the PIA
chip, but most of the chips are at different memory locations.

Here are the differences between the 5200 and the computers:

. Memory: The 5200 has a fixed 16K of RAM. Memory locations $00 - $18
	and $200 - $21B are reserved for the BIOS to use.

. ROM: The BIOS ROM of the 5200 is only 2K instead of 10K.  Virtualy
	none of the computer's BIOS functions are implemented on the
	5200.

. ANTIC: The 5200 does not have a System Reset key, so bit 5 of NMIST
	is not used.

. GTIA: The trigger inputs, TRIG0 - TRIG3 are connected to the bottom
	buttons of the controllers. The 5200 does not have Start,
	Select, or Option buttons, so these lines are used as
	outputs.  Bit 2 of CONSOL enables and disables the joystick
	pots.  Bits 0 and 1 control which keypad controller is being
	read. This only affects the keypad buttons, and the top
	trigger buttons.

. POKEY: The eight paddle inputs from the computer are now wired to
	the joysticks, 2 to each stick, one for vertical position and
	the other for horizontal position. The joysticks are read in
	the same way that the computer's paddles are read. On the
	5200 the KBCODE register bits 1 - 4 hold the scancode from
	the currently selected keypad controller. Bit 6 of KBCODE is
	used to read the top button of the controllers instead of the
	SHIFT key. They also cause the BREAK-key interrupt. The
	POKEY's serial lines are connected to the expansion connector.

. Cartridge: The cartridges can be up to 32K.  There are two
	interlock connectors that are wired together on a cartridge
	board.  The 5200 uses this as a switch for the cartridge's
	power connections and as a  Reset signal.  Therefore, a
	cartridge may be safely removed or inserted while the 5200 is
	powered on.

4.13 -- CHROMA/LUMA (COMPOSITE) AND AUDIO OUTPUT MODIFICATION
-------------------------------------------------------------

Difference between 2-port and 4-port consoles:
   Not surprisingly, there are very few appreciable differences
   between the 2-port and 4-port variations of the Atari 5200.  For
   the purposes of this article, they are considered to be
   identical.

Where to get signals:
   Most of the components do not have visible labels on the board's
   silkscreen, so giving component numbers is not useful.  In the
   upper right corner of the area of the board that's covered by the
   shielding, there is a horizontal row of components.

               o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o
               |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |
               C  R3 R2 R1 D  R  R  R  R  R  R  R
               |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |
               o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o
                              ^  ^  ^  ^  ^  ^
                              |  |  |  |  |  `-Chroma
                              |  |  |  |  `----Luma 1
                              |  |  |  `-------Sync
                              |  |  `----------Luma 0
                              |  `-------------Luma 2
                              `----------------Luma 3

   There is a row of components to the right of the GTIA (CO14805)
   and below a cluster of inductors and transistors.

                o  o o o o o o o o o o
                |  | | | | | | | | | |
               R40 R R R R R C R R C C
                |  | | | | | | | | | |
                o  o o o o o o o o o o
                               ^
                               `--Audio

Luma output:
   The Luma signal needs amplification to be useful.  After probing
   around on an Atari 800 (a close relative to the 5200 that
   conveniently has Chroma/Luma outputs built in), I realized the
   amplifier circuit they used is remarkably similar to the one
   attributed to Thomas Clancy in the Classic Atari 2600/5200/7800
   Game Systems FAQ for the Atari 2600.  Rather than try to copy the
   circuit in the Atari 800 or design one from scratch, I decided to
   use the one given there.  The only significant difference is the
   addition of another level of luminance.

   Materials needed:
   100uF capacitor
   10uF capacitor
   10 ohm
(2)75 ohm - an 82 ohm works well (RS 271-1107)
   750 ohm
   1.6 kohm
   2   kohm
   4.7 kohm
   9.1 kohm
   18  kohm
   36  kohm
   CR - low power silicon diode (RS 276-1122)
   Q - 3904 or equivalent (RS 276-2016)
   RCA jack

                                 o+5V
                                 |
                                 |  +
                                 |---|(----,
                                 |  100uF  |
                                 |         \/ GND
                                 |
                                 |             10uf
                                 |---/\/\/---,--|(--,
            CR1  750       1.6K  |    10     | +    |
    Sync --|<]--/\/\/-,  ,-/\/\/-`           |      \/ GND
            4.7K      |  |        ___/-------`
  Luma 3 ---/\/\/-----|  |     Q /|/c\
            9.1K      |--|------(b|   )                   RCA jack
  Luma 2 ---/\/\/-----|  |       \|\e/          75        __
            18K       |  |           \-----,---/\/\/-----O__ LUMA
  Luma 1 ---/\/\/-----|  |  2K             |             |   OUTPUT
            36K       |  `-/\/\/----/\/\/--`         GND \/
  Luma 0 ---/\/\/-----`          |    75
                             GND \/

Chroma output:
   In my experience, the 5200's chroma signal is sufficiently strong
   that it can be used without amplification.  On my own 5200, I
   ran the chroma through a 2kohm resistor to "take the edge off,"
   then a 1uF capacitor to filter the DC voltage off.  Play around
   with the resistance there to find what suits you.

                                                          RCA jack
             2k     1uF                                   __
  Chroma ---/\/\/---|(-----------------------------------O__ CHROMA
                                                         |   OUTPUT
                                                     GND \/

Audio output:
   This is just a capacitor to filter out the DC voltage.

                                                          RCA jack
               1uF                                        __
  Audio ------|(-----------------------------------------O__ AUDIO
                                                         |   OUTPUT
                                                     GND \/

Composite video output:
   To gain composite output, just tie the Luma and Chroma outputs
   together into a single output.

Where to put it:
   I mounted the circuits on a small project board from Radio Shack,
   tapping into the appropriate points on the 5200 board with a
   length of ribbon cable.  I then tucked the board into the
   controller storage space at the back of the console and ran the
   output signals to three RCA jacks I had mounted in the removable
   expansion interface cover.  That way the only permanently
   modified/damaged piece (the cover) is also one that is easily
   replaced.

5.0)	HARDWARE MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR GUIDE
=============================================
5.1 -- CONSOLE
--------------

Coming Soon!

5.2 -- CONTROLLERS				
------------------
5.21 -- CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE
--------------------------------
Atari 5200 controller buttons, mainly the
fire and start/pause/reset buttons, wear out prematurely, either by
repeated use or by periods of non-use. Here's the easy way to
(temporarily) fix the 5200 controller buttons. The buttons work by
pressing a carbon coated disk against a set of printed circuits.
The two circuits are interweaved and a connection is made when the
carbon touches both traces.  The traces look like this:
        |-----  |
        | ------|
        |------ |
        | ------|

The carbon coated disks are located on the underside of the
rubber buttons you press.  What makes them quit working is the
exposed circuit traces corrode and get dirty, not allowing the
connection to be made.  This is especially true if the controllers
are stored for some time in a damp place (or just unused for
a long amount of time) (or especially if you spill pop on them
:). The quick way to fix them is to clean the traces.  This can
be done by rubbing (gently!) with a pencil eraser until shiny
clean.  This will remedy the situation, but they will soon corrode
again, depending on use. (some versions of the controllers
used different coatings on the traces to avoid this, but these
only slightly prolonged the life of the buttons; I haven't seen
any that don't need some periodic cleaning). To open the controller
to clean, follow these steps exactly:

1) With a small screwdriver, pry up the bezel surrounding the
start/pause/reset =DFbuttons.  Remove the rubber buttons if they
didn't come out with the bezel.  Now peel the printed circuit off
the plastic case; it's just glued onto it.  Lift the right side,
as the left side has connections into the controller.  Do not rip
or remove the circuit, just un-glue it from the case.

2) Remove the three screws from the bottom of the case.  Center
the joystick, and leave it there.  Now separate the case halves,
by opening starting at the start/pause/reset end.  The other end
is pressed together; it will snap apart as you separate the
cases. Don't move the potentiometers in the bottom of the case for
the stick won't mate back up when you put it back together.

3) Remove the fire buttons and their bezels.  Now the traces for
the fire buttons are exposed.  Clean them by rubbing with
eraser.  Wipe off with a clean napkin or similar afterwards.

4) Place the fire buttons and their bezels into the lower half of
the case. Guide the start/pause/reset circuit up through the
upper case half where it belongs, and bring the two halves together.
By centering the stick before placing the halves together, it's
receptacle will automatically fit into the bottom of the
case, and the two directional axis plates will automatically hook
up with the potentiometers.  It's best to place the number keypad
end together loosely first, as this will allow peering into the
joystick end as it goes together to make sure everything lines
up.  The end of the joystick has to go into the hole in the
bottom case, and the posts on the two arms on the potentiometers
have to go into their respective holes on the plates in the upper
case.  After together, make sure the stick moves in all directions
freely and completely.  If so, replace the three screws.

5) Re-stick the start/pause/reset circuit to the case, then clean
these traces as described above.  Replace the buttons and the
bezel.

You can also clean the keypad traces while it's apart; they don't
seem to get used as much, so will usually work alot longer. The
flex circuits with the traces on them are fragile, so be gentle
around them.  A hairline crack in a trace can cause certain
buttons not to work at all.  These cracks can be repaired by
soldering a bridge over the crack.  Careful, the flex circuit
melts much before the solder does!

The permanent way to fix these buttons is by soldering sealed,
surface mount micro-pushbutton switches onto the circuits.  This
not only makes the buttons ALWAYS work, but also gives them a
'snap' action, compared to the mushy feel of the original buttons.
The switches I use are small enough to fit under the
original rubber buttons, so except for them working and feeling
different, you can't tell from the outside that any change has
been made.  If anyone is interested in having their sticks retro
fitted with these superior buttons, let me know.


5.22 -- REPLACING AND REPAIRING THE 5200 JOYSTICK
-------------------------------------------------

One of the most "beat upon" parts of the joystick are the "fire"
buttons.  Good news is that they can be replaced easily.

First you will need to order replacement parts. I recommend replacing
all the internal parts except for the pots (unless you experience
specific difficulty with them). Best Electronics offers the 
Following:

                        		SPARE PARTS
Description		Quantity per joystick		Part #	$$$
-----------             --------------------- 		------  ---
Fire Buttons			2 (provides 4 buttons)	CO20501	$2.00
Start, Pause, Reset		1			CO18128	$2.50
Buttons
Numeric Keypad			1			CO18126	$2.50
Internal Flex Circuit		1			CO18124	$2.50
Controller Boot			1			CO21084	$0.50
Boot Retaining Ring		1			CO18116	$0.20
Total per joystick		7			       $10.20

What Now??

1. Use a knife to remove the plastic bezel containing the Start,
	Pause & Reset buttons.

2. Remove the 3 screws holding the joystick together.

3. Use a screwdriver, at the base, to separate the 2 halves of the
	joystick.

4. Remove the Fire buttons from each side, making sure to save the
	plastic bezel that holds them in. (you'll need this when
	installing the new Fire buttons).

5. Remove the old Flex Circuit. It was probably attached with double-
	sided tape. Replace this tape when installing the new FC.
	First make certain the new FC fits well then add the tape.

	Don't put the tape over the top of the Flex Circuit. We're
	trying to make a connection between the button and the
	circuit board.

6. Replace the Fire buttons mounted in their plastic bezels

7. Center the Numeric keypad ontop of the Flex Circuit. Use the top
	half of the joystick to estimate where it should fit. Also
	use the guide pegs that align the FC into place.

8. Before reattaching the joystick make sure the pots are oriented
	correctly so that you maximize the chance that the stick will
	line up properly.
     
	The correct position of the pots are:
     	Top pot peg positioned at 10 o'clock
     	Bottom pot peg positioned at 6 o'clock.

9. Reattach the top half of the joystick. Make sure you feed the Flex
	Circuit for the S,P,R buttons through the slot on the left.
	Also make sure the joystick handle fits into the cup in
	between the 2 pots.

10. Before replacing the screws in the bottom, slowly move the
	joystick handle around to see if it "feels" like its in
	place.

11. If it feels good, replace the screws.

How do I tell if it is lined up properly?

Play a game like Missile Command or any game that features up/down
movement as well as side-to-side. If one or more directions fail you
will need to reopen the joystick and follow from instruction #8
above.

6.0)	ALTERNATIVES TO THE STANDARD 5200 CONTROLLER
====================================================

5200 gamers, rejoice!  For individuals who have long suffered at the
hands of the unreliable and imprecise standard 5200 controller,
there are now a slew of alternatives that are mentioned below.

6.1 -- THIRD PARTY JOYSTICKS
----------------------------

Wico Command Control Joystick (Wico)
	A decent replacement to the original controllers, the Wico is
	an analog stick which comes with a Y-cable which enables the
	5200 joystick to be used for the keypad functions.

Competition Pro Joystick (by Coin Controls)

	An excellent alternative to the standard 5200 joystick, this
	controller is a ball-handled microswitch joystick which
	offers tremendous feel and control for most games.  Highly
	recommended.

6.2 -- MASTERPLAY INTERFACE (By Electra Concepts)
-------------------------------------------------

This is THE device to have for any collector or die-hard game player.
The handy plug-in unit allows 5200 owners to replace the system's
analog joystick with any number of 2600-compatible, digital
joysticks.  In addition, the Interface features a slide switch so
that a digital joystick can be used in either a remote 'start' mode
or a 'fire' model depending upon the game.  A second slide switch
lets you keep the unit permanently connected to the console so that
the analog controller functions, including the use of the keyboard
portion by itself, can be accomplished simply and easily.  The
Masterplay Interface came packaged with a second fire button for
games that require it.  This button can either be taped or velcroed
to the 2600 joystick.

6.3 -- BUILD YOUR OWN 2600 JOYSTICK ADAPTER
-------------------------------------------

Materials needed                          Radio Shack part #

* (2) 1 kohm resistor                     271-1321 (includes 5)
* (2) PNP 3906 transistor or similiar     276-1604 (includes 15)
* (2) silicon diodes                      276-1122 (includes 10)
* (1) 9-position male D-sub connector     276-1537
* (2) approximately 250 kohm resistor

   These are to be used to define the stick's center position.
   Exactly 250 kohm isn't necessary. Stacking a 220 kohm resistor (RS
   #271-1350) with a 22 kohm resistor (RS #271-1339) works well
   enough.  Stacking a 220 kohm with a 33 kohm (RS #271-1341) also
   works well.

* (1) 15-position female D-sub connector

   Best Electronics has these, but Radio Shack doesn't to have
   anything like it in their retail stores.  FWIW, I've used a
   six-foot PC joystick extension cable, which has many benefits. Not
   only does relieve you of the four-foot tether of the standard
   controllers (room to stretch your legs!), but the cable has both
   the male and female connectors.  By hacking off the male end along
   with about six inches of the cable, you can make a Y-adapter that
   pipes the keypad/function key stuff (pins 1-8) to a regular
   controller, and the joystick-related stuff (pins 9-15) to this
   thing.

Schematic
5200 port                         2600 stick
---------                         ----------
pin 12 +5V------------------------pin 7 +5V  Not entirely necessary
						unless you're using a
						rapidfire stick/adapter
pin 15 Ground---------------------pin 8 	Ground
pin 13 Bottom Fire----------------pin 6 	Fire
pin 14 Top Fire-------------------pin 9      	For compatibility with
						most Genesis pads.
pin 10 H-pot---------->|----------pin 4 East Duplicate all this for
            |    |  diode                    the vertical control
            /    |                           circuit.  Mentally
        ~250\    |                           substitute the 
        kohm/    |                           following pin numbers:
            \    |__                         Port pin 10-->11 
            |       \     1 kohm             Stick pin 3-->1
            |   PNP  \|___/\/\/\__pin 3 West Stick pin 4-->2
            |   3906 ^|                       
Pin 9  Pot__|_______/                         
       Common                                 
Function
* Pushing east on the stick grounds the horizontal circuit, mimicking
	the effect of infinite resistance between pot common and H-pot.
* Pushing west causes a short circuit between pot common and H-pot,
	i.e. zero resistance.
* The fire button works exactly like it does on the regular 5200
	controller.
* If you're using a Genesis controller, button B functions as the
	bottom fire button, and button C as the top.

Good Things
-----------
* No more problems with games that were unplayable with your crummy
	non-centering 5200 sticks.
* Cheap!  I've spent less than eleven dollars on the raw materials
	for one of these, including some rather fancy touches
	(Y-adapter, switchable analog stick, etc.)
* It should work with every 2600 joystick there is. I've tested it
	with my mechanical switch sticks, my Genesis-to-7800 pad, my
	NES-to-7800 pad, and my 2600 remote control sticks, and they
	all work peachy-keen.

Bad Things
----------
* 2600 sticks don't have two fire buttons.  If you want, you can glue
	an extra fire button onto your 2600-compatible stick of
	choice.  Just wire it up between port pins 14 and 15.
* Won't work with games that require the analog capabilities of the
	5200 stick, like Missile Command.  A few other games like
	Centipede and Galaxian make limited use of the analog-osity
	of the regular stick by giving two movement speeds depending
	on how far you push the stick.  With the adapter, you can
	only get the fastest speed. It's not a huge handicap, but
	it's probably worth mentioning.
* Neither this adapter nor the Masterplay interface gets along well
	with three particular games:  Qix, Vanguard, and Ms. Pac-Man.
	There are others, but I haven't gotten around to trying it on
	all the games yet.  They will respond to pushing east
	(or south) on the stick as if you're pushing west (or north).
	No real clue exactly why this happens, but you may be able to
	make them work by starting up a game, thrashing the digital
	stick around until the game behaves itself, then starting a
	new game.  It might work work for you, and it might not.
	YMMV.

6.4 -- PC JOYSTICK TO 5200 ADAPTER
----------------------------------

Brian Holscher

Yes, you can build an adapter Y-cable for the 5200 to allow one to
use a PC analog joystick. You plug the Atari 5200 controller into
one connecter to use its keypad.  You plug a PC joystick into the
other connecter for movement and buttons.  Great  for Star Raiders
and Galaxian.  OK for Super Breakout if you have a steady hand.

	How to Connect a PC Joystick to an Atari 5200 System.
			(Revision 1.0)
                           5/24/96


This is an adapter for connecting a PC joystick to an Atari 5200.
Its a small cable with two 15 pin connectors on one end and
one 15 pin connector on the other.  The single connector end plugs
into the A5200.  One the other end, one connector is for a PC
joystick and the other is for an Atari 5200 controller.  The keypad
and top row buttons are used on the 5200 controller as usual.  The PC
joystick replaces the A5200 direction control and fire buttons.

Any PC compatible joystick will work, but some PC compatible
joystick are digital instead of analog.  These seem mostly the joypad
variety.  You can still use digital joysticks, but some games will
not work.  Super Breakout is the big one that is impossible to play
with a digital PC joystick (Well you can, but the paddle can only be
all the way left, all the way right, or in the middle).  Games like
Pacman and Defender play no different with a digital PC joystick.
However, I have noticed, that games like Galaxian and Star Raiders
play better with an analog joystick.  For example the ship in 
Galaxian has two speeds in each direction.  Moving the stick a little
to the left will move the ship slowly to the left and moving the
stick all the way to the left will move the ship at a faster speed.
So these games are still playable with a digital joystick but won't
have the same feel as an analog joystick.

For the serious gamers, I would recommend an analog joystick
with trimmer controls.  The trimmers allow optimum sensitivity
adjustment and as a bonus you can play Super Breakout with just the
trimmer control.  There's one from Quickshot called the Warrior 5
that is only $10.  If you have a joystick without trimmers like the
Thrustmaster, it still works, but it seems more sensitive in one
direction than another.  This can be fixed by playing with different
capacitor values.

Some of you may be wondering about calibration.  I can't confirm
this, but from my observations, there is some auto calibration going
on.  For example, I put in Galaxian, and press start.  My ship starts
moving right even though I'm in the neutral position.  However, If I
move all the way left and all the way right, the ship always stops
when I'm in neutral position.  I have observed this behavior with my
adapter as well as the Atari 5200 controller.

I have also been asked about the Gravis PC Gamepad.  I don't know
for sure, but I believe the Gravis PC Gamepad is digital.  Feel
free to correct me if I am wrong.  If it is, it comes under the same
restrictions discussed above.

If anybody is interested in making these adapters to sell, you have
my permission.  All I ask is that somewhere you give me credit for
the design.

Now the Disclaimer.  I am not responsible for:

1. Any damage done to your A5200
2. Any damage done to your PC Joystick.
3. Any errors in these instructions or schematic.

I'm not going to give step by step instructions.  I'm going to
assume that the reader has some basic knowledge of electronics and
can figure out what to do with the schematics and info presented
here.  I will, however, answer questions if asked.

Now that I covered my backside, here is how to do it:

Parts List:

2	15 pin Female   Sub-miniature D connectors
2	15 pin Male     Sub-miniature D connector
2	.22uF		Ceramic Capacitors
1	~1 ft.		15 pin cable

Schematic:

         ________                           ________
        |        |                         |        |
        | 1    1 |_________________________| 1   1  |
        | 5      |                         |     5  |
        |      2 |_________________________| 2      |
        | P      |                         |     P  |   A5200
        | I    3 |_________________________| 3   I  |   Controller
A5200   | N      |                         |     N  |
        |      4 |_________________________| 4      |   No connection
        | F      |                         |     M  |   on pins 9-15
        | E    5 |_________________________| 5   A  |
        | M      |                         |     L  |
        | A    6 |_________________________| 6   E  |
        | L      |                         |        |
        | E    7 |_________________________| 7   C  |
        |        |                         |     O  |
        | C    8 |_________________________| 8   N  |
        | O      |                         |________|         
        | N      |        
        |        |
        |        |
        |        |
        |        |                          ________
        |        |                         |        |
        |      13|_________________________| 2   1  |
        |        |                         |     5  |
        |      14|_________________________| 7      |
        |        |                         |     P  |   PC
        |      9 |_________________________| 1   I  |   Joystick
        |        |                         |     N  |
        |      10|_____x___________________| 3      |   No connection
        |        |     |                   |     F  |  on pins 5, 8-15
        |      11|_____|_________x_________| 6   E  |
        |        |     |         |         |     M  |
        |        |    _|_       _|_        |     A  |
        |        |    ___       ___        |     L  |
        |        |     | .22uF   | .22uF   |     E  |
        |        |     |         |         |        |
        |      15|_____x_________x_________| 4   C  |
        |        |                         |     O  |
        |        |          Gnd            |     N  |
        |________|                         |________|         


Notes:

1.  Wire up one end of the cable to a 15 pin female connector.  This
	will be the connector that goes to the A5200.  Wire the other
	two connectors to the other end of the cable.
2.  The value of the capacitors is not critical.  If the PC joystick
	has a trimmer, a slightly smaller or larger value should
	work.

3.  The type of capacitor is not important.  If polarized caps are
	used, connect the negative leads to the 15---4 wire.

4.  Because of the A5200 joystick connector is so deep, using a clam
	shell cover for this adapter connector makes it very loose.
	I recommend heat shrink tubing or electrical tape on this
	end.

6.5 -- STANDARD ATARI 5200 JOYSTICK WITH MICROSWITCH-FITTED
          FIRE BUTTONS
-----------------------------------------------------------

Finally a trouble free controller for the atari 5200!!  These are
the original atari units, with sealed, micro-push button switches
fitted in all 4 fire buttons plus the start/pause/reset buttons.
These replacement switches not only avoid the failures common to the
atari resistance type switches, but provide a tactile 'click' which
makes the buttons much more responsive.  No cosmetic differences
noticeable from outside.

After working on several of these, and getting several requests
for pinouts, here's a semi-schematic, textual description of the
controllers. I've heard a PC type controller can be wired to work the
stick, but then youv'e got 19 buttons to put somewhere!

 ---------------------------------
 \ 1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8 /
  \  9  10  11  12  13  14  15  /
   -----------------------------

This pinout is looking at the controller (female) end of a 5200
controller.  The switches are arranged in a matrix, as shown in the
diagram below.  Any wire pair (1 horizontal, 1 vertical) passing
through a key are the two wires that the switch must close.  All the
switches in the 5200 controller are normally open.

 (5) (6) (7) (8)               (9)   (9)
  |   |   |   |                 |     |
  S---1---2---3---(2)          LUF---RUF---(10)
  |   |   |   |                 |     |
  P---4---5---6---(3)          LLF---RLF---(11)
  |   |   |   |
  R---7---8---9---(4)          S: start
      |   |   |                P: pause
      *---0---#---(1)          R: reset
                               L|R U|L F: left|right upper|lower fire

The potientometers used for the stick are regular, 270 degree 3
terminal pots.  (some models had pots limited to about 40 degrees
of movement, but standard pots will work regardless).  The pots used
have a nominal resistance of 500K ohms, I checked several and found
some to be nearer to 600K.  Anything from 500 to 600K should work.
The pots are arranged so X and Y movement rotates the pot about 20
degrees off center for each positive and negaltive movement. The
remaining wires are connected to the pots so the following happens.
(15) and (14) are connected to the X pot so at center, the difference
between them os ~250K ohms.  At the full +X position, ~450K ohms.  At
full -X position, ~10K ohms.  Again, I checked several, and all
readings varied about 100K ohms at any position, so these not need be
exactally reproduced.  As the 5200 does a A to D conversion, it
probably compares the starting (center) position to an offset
position, and calculates movement off that regardless what the actual
ohm value is at any position. (13) and (15) go to the Y pot, again at
center ~250K, but at full +Y ~10K, and at full -Y ~450K. Note that
with this info, you could easily adapt a set of =DFpaddle controllers
to operate the Y movement in the 5200 (for super breakout, etc.).  
Or you could just use your trak-ball!

7.0) 	ATARI 5200 EMULATORS
============================

7.1 -- VSS (A.K.A. "Virtual SuperSystem")
-----------------------------------------

Dan Boris's Emulator Page
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/9461/emulate.htm

VSS (Virtual SuperSystem) is a newly-released *FREE* Atari 5200
SuperSystem emulator for MSDOS.  The current version runs about 75%
of the ROM images I have almost flawlessly, and at a reasonable speed
even on a 486 DX2/66.  On a Pentium system the emulator gets close 
to, or better than full speed on a lot of games.  To use the emulator
you will need a copy of the 5200's 2K BIOS ROM, and 5200 ROM cart
images.

Some of the games that I have found to run almost perfectly are:
Pac-Man, Ms.Pac-Man, K-Razy Shootout, Frogger, Frogger II, Jungle
Hunt, Astrochase, Berzerk, Blue Print, Centipede, Defender, Gorf,
Gremlins, Kaboom, Missile Command and Zaxxon.

The current version of the emulator (V0.50) supports:

* 16K or 32K ROM images
* 1 joystick emulated through the keyboard or mouse (for analog
	games)
* All keypad and trigger buttons on controller are emulated.
* Configurable frame rate
* Integrated debugger and disassembler.

Unlike Pokey or Rainbow, this one is a dedicated 5200-only
emulator.

7.2 -- RAINBOW
--------------

Rainbow Emulator Page
http://www.cityscape.co.uk/users/jx91/rainbow.html

Rainbow is an Atari 8-Bit Emulator that allows Atari 8-bit Computer
and 5200 software to run on the Macintosh or Windows95/NT.
Currently, only a preview demo is downloadable for Win95/NT, with
the shareware version expected momentarily.  A full shareware
version for the Macintosh has been available for some time.

Here's a quick list of key features in the full shareware version:

* Accepts 16K and 32K ROMs for 5200.
* Fast full and medium screen displays.
* True 256 Atari colors.
* Full ANTIC/GTIA graphics, namely all ANTIC modes, Player/Missile
	Graphics, fine scrolling and Display List interrupts.
* Four joysticks (via keypad) and four paddles (using mouse)

7.3 -- POKEY
------------

Pokey Emulator Page
http://w3.one.net/~mhill/pokey/pokey.html

Pokey, like Rainbow, is a *FREE* Atari Computer emulator for DOS
that can also emulate the 5200 if you have the 5200's 2K BIOS ROM.
It is currently in its early stages of development but shows promise.

Present Pokey features:

* 320 X 200 screen (scrollable) or Mode X (320 X 240 or 360 X 240)
* Supports two PC joysticks (swapple on the fly or upon loading)
* DLI and VBI supported.
* All ANTIC modes.
* Player-missile graphics with collision detection
* GTIA graphics
* Horizontal and vertical fine scrolling
* System monitor.

8.0)	ELECTRONIC RESOURCES, BOOKS AND MAGAZINES
=================================================

8.1 -- INTERNET RESOURCES
-------------------------

8.11 -- WORLD WIDE WEB PAGES
----------------------------

	-- 5200 Instruction Manual Archive
	Coming in September

	-- 5200 SuperSystem Homepage
	Coming in September

	-- History of Home Videogames Homepage
	http://videogames.org
	A comprehensive look at all the significant home videogame
	systems, from past to present.

	-- Pete's Vintage/Classic Games
	http://eliza.netaxis.com/~petebuilt/vintage.html
	Includes coverage of the 5200, as well as a section on how to
	build your own arcade-quality joystick for the 5200!

	-- Dan Boris' Home Page
	http://www.geocites.com/SiliconValley/9461
	The man behind VSS -- the 5200 SuperSystem emulator.

8.12 -- USENET NEWSGROUPS
-------------------------

	-- rec.games.video.classic
		Discussion about any and all classic (pre-NES) game
		hardware and software.

	-- alt.games.video.classic
		Discussion about any and all classic (pre-NES) game
		hardware and software.  Does not have very much
		traffic.

	-- rec.games.video.marketplace
		A videogame newsgroup which is dedicated to those who
		wish to buy and sell games.  RGVM is not limited
		strictly to classic systems.

8.13 -- IRC (INTERNET RELAY CHAT)
---------------------------------

	-- #RGVC
		#RGVC is the official IRC channel of the
		rec.games.video.classic newsgroup, and was created in
		February, 1996 for people who enjoy classic games to
		chat about more or less anything, in a real time
		environment.  There are usually people around 24
		hours a day, so drop in and say hello anytime!

		If you're curious about learning more about the
		channel, point your browser to:

		http://www.best.com/~riffraff/rgvc.cgi
		You'll find info about #rgvc's origin, some of the
		people who visit there, and lots of other cool stuff.
		
8.14 -- FTP SITES
-----------------

need help here...

8.2 -- BOOKS AND PERIODICALS
----------------------------

"Phoenix: The Fall and Rise of Home Videogames", by Leonard Herman.
	Rolenta Press, rolenta@aol.com.  
	PO Box 3814, Union, NJ 07083-1891.

	A MUST READ for those who would like to learn about the
	history of home videogames, from its very inception to the
	present.

Classic Books and Periodicals List.  Maintained by Lee Seitz
	http://iquest.com/~lkseitz/

Atari Age Magazine
	An official magazine of the Atari club and published by
	Atari, this publication had 11 bi-monthly issues from May of
	1982 until April 1984.  Similar to Nintendo Power in that it
	was basically a means for Atari to promote their products
	while at the same time providing readers with Atari news,
	articles and strategies.

9.0)  	ATARI 5200 DEALERS 
==========================

If you would like to be mentioned here, please drop me a line.

DEALERS
-------

Best Electronics
	2021 The Alameda, Suite 290, San Jose, CA  95126-1127
	(408) 243-6950

Flashback
	4619 E. Thomas, Phoenix, AZ  85018
	(602) 957-4654

FMH Games
	ap748@cleveland.freenet.edu
	P.O. Box 493, Chesterland, OH  44026-0493
	(206) 729-0761

JerryG Visionaries
	jerryg@hevanet.com
	http://www.hevanet.com/jerryg/games.html
	14700 NW Bonneville Loop, Beaverton, OR  97006

Ben Johnson
	benjohnson@aol.com
	http://www.halcyon.com/benj/
	5024 156th Ave. SE, Bellevue, WA  98006-3629

Sean Kelly
	skelly@xnet.com
	http://www.xnet.com/~skelly/
	5789 N. Milwaukee, Chicago, IL  60646
	(718) 583-1552

Steve Reed
	stever@on-ramp.ior.com
	http://www.ior.com/~stever/

Steven Tucker
	classics@nacs.net
	9897 Yolk Road, N.Royalton, OH  44133
	(216) 237-5308

Telegames
	http://www.telegames.com
	Box 901, Lancaster, TX  75146
	(214) 228-0690

Then Games (Scott Stone and Mark Terry)
	tafoid@delphi.com
	http://people.delphi.com/tafoid/thengame.htm
	(802) 893-3004

Video 61
	ice@skypoint.com
	22735 Kongo St. NE, Stacy, MN  55079
	(612) 462-2500

PRIVATE COLLECTORS
------------------

John Hardie
	jhardie@usa.pipeline.com
	90 Judith Lane, Valley Stream, NY  11580
	(516) 568-9768

Keita Iida
	keita@mindspring.com, 75271.122@compuserve.com
	180 Halstead Ave. #2H, Harrison, NY  10528
     (914) 835-4069
